Ford E7TZ-1216-A Cone And Roller - Bearing

You can Select Your Vehicle to check if E7TZ-1216-A fits your vehicle.

In most cases, the front wheel bearings will not need servicing until the brake pads are changed. However, these bearings should be checked whenever the front wheels are raised for any reason. With the vehicle securely supported on jack stands, spin the wheel and check for noise, rolling resistance or free play. Grasp the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. If it moves more than 0.005 in, the bearing should be checked, then repacked with grease or replaced as necessary. To remove the bearings for replacing or repacking, begin by removing the hub cap and wheel. Remove the grease cap, using a screwdriver. Straighten and remove the cotter pin and remove the nut lock. With an adjustable wrench or channel-lock-type pliers, remove the lock nut. Remove the flat washer. Grasp the brake rotor firmly and with a slight rocking motion, withdraw the hub from the spindle. Inspection and packing procedures for the wheel bearings can be found. Installing is the reversal of removal but the wheel bearings must be adjusted before the nut lock and cotter pin are fitted. Install the lock nut finger tight and then rock the hub assembly in and out several times to push the brake pads away from the rotor. Install the wheel. While rotating the wheel and hub assembly, tighten the nut to 17 to 25 ft-lb (10 to 15 Nm) to seat the bearings. Loosen the nut one-half turn and then retighten to 10 to 15 lb-in(1.1 to 1.7 Nm). Install the nut lock on the nut so that the castellations on the lock align with the spindle cotter pin hole. Install the cotter pin, bending the ends around the flange of the nut lock. Spin the wheel and hub assembly to check for proper operation. Reinstall the grease cap, using a punch to lock it in position.

In most cases, the front wheel bearings will not need servicing until the brake pads are changed. However, they should be checked whenever the front of the vehicle is raised for any reason. Several items, including a torque wrench and special grease, are required for this procedure: Hammer, Grease, Wood block, Needle-nose pliers, Torque wrench, Screwdriver, Socket/breaker bar, Brush. With the vehicle securely supported on jackstands, spin each wheel and check for noise, rolling resistance, and free play. Grasp the top of each tire with one hand and the bottom with the other, moving the wheel in-and-out on the spindle. If there is any noticeable movement, the bearings should be checked and then repacked with grease or replaced if necessary. Remove the wheel and the brake caliper, hanging it out of the way on a piece of wire. A wood block can be slid between the brake pads to keep them separated. Pry the dust cap out of the hub using a screwdriver or hammer and chisel. Straighten the bent ends of the cotter pin, then pull it out of the nut lock. Discard the cotter pin and use a new one during reassembly. Remove the nut lock, nut, and washer from the end of the spindle. Pull the hub/disc assembly out slightly, then push it back into its original position to force the outer bearing off the spindle enough so it can be removed. Pull the hub/disc assembly off the spindle. Use a screwdriver to pry the seal out of the rear of the hub and remove the inner wheel bearing. Use solvent to remove all traces of the old grease from the bearings, hub, and spindle, allowing the parts to air dry. Inspect the bearings for cracks, heat discoloration, worn rollers, etc., and check the bearing races inside the hub for wear and damage. If defective, the hubs should be taken to a machine shop to remove the old races and press new ones in, noting that bearings and races come as matched sets. Use high-temperature front wheel bearing grease to pack the bearings, working it completely into the rollers, cone, and cage from the back side. Apply a thin coat of grease to the spindle at the outer bearing seat, inner bearing seat, shoulder, and seal seat. Put a small quantity of grease inboard of each bearing race inside the hub, forming a dam at these points with your finger. Place the grease-packed inner bearing into the rear of the hub and put a little more grease outboard of the bearing. Place a new seal over the inner bearing and tap it evenly into place with a hammer and blunt punch until it is flush with the hub. Carefully place the hub assembly onto the spindle and push the grease-packed outer bearing into position. Install the washer and spindle nut, tightening the nut only slightly (no more than 12 ft-lbs of torque). Spin the hub in a forward direction while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 20 ft-lbs to seat the bearings. Loosen the spindle nut 1/4-turn, then tighten the nut by hand until it is snug. Install the nut lock and a new cotter pin through the hole in the spindle and the slots in the nut lock, bending the ends of the cotter pin flat against the nut and cutting off any extra length. Install the dust cap, tapping it into place with a hammer. Place the brake caliper near the rotor, carefully remove the wood spacer, and install the caliper. Install the wheel on the hub and tighten the lug nuts. Grasp the top and bottom of the tire and check the bearings as described earlier. Finally, lower the vehicle.

In most cases, the front wheel bearings will not need servicing until the brake pads are changed. However, they should be checked whenever the front of the vehicle is raised for any reason. Several items, including a torque wrench and special grease, are required for this procedure: Hammer, Grease, Wood block, Needle-nose pliers, Torque wrench, Screwdriver, Socket/breaker bar, Brush. With the vehicle securely supported on jackstands, spin each wheel and check for noise, rolling resistance, and free play. Grasp the top of each tire with one hand and the bottom with the other, moving the wheel in-and-out on the spindle. If there is any noticeable movement, the bearings should be checked and then repacked with grease or replaced if necessary. Remove the wheel and the brake caliper, hanging it out of the way on a piece of wire. A wood block can be slid between the brake pads to keep them separated. Pry the dust cap out of the hub using a screwdriver or hammer and chisel. Straighten the bent ends of the cotter pin, then pull it out of the nut lock. Discard the cotter pin and use a new one during reassembly. Remove the nut lock, nut, and washer from the end of the spindle. Pull the hub/disc assembly out slightly, then push it back into its original position to force the outer bearing off the spindle enough so it can be removed. Pull the hub/disc assembly off the spindle. Use a screwdriver to pry the seal out of the rear of the hub and remove the inner wheel bearing. Use solvent to remove all traces of the old grease from the bearings, hub, and spindle, allowing the parts to air dry. Inspect the bearings for cracks, heat discoloration, worn rollers, etc., and check the bearing races inside the hub for wear and damage. If defective, the hubs should be taken to a machine shop to remove the old races and press new ones in, noting that bearings and races come as matched sets. Use high-temperature front wheel bearing grease to pack the bearings, working it completely into the rollers, cone, and cage from the back side. Apply a thin coat of grease to the spindle at the outer bearing seat, inner bearing seat, shoulder, and seal seat. Put a small quantity of grease inboard of each bearing race inside the hub, forming a dam at these points with your finger. Place the grease-packed inner bearing into the rear of the hub and put a little more grease outboard of the bearing. Place a new seal over the inner bearing and tap it evenly into place with a hammer and blunt punch until it is flush with the hub. Carefully place the hub assembly onto the spindle and push the grease-packed outer bearing into position. Install the washer and spindle nut, tightening the nut only slightly (no more than 12 ft-lbs of torque). Spin the hub in a forward direction while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 20 ft-lbs to seat the bearings. Loosen the spindle nut 1/4-turn, then tighten the nut by hand until it is snug. Install the nut lock and a new cotter pin through the hole in the spindle and the slots in the nut lock, bending the ends of the cotter pin flat against the nut and cutting off any extra length. Install the dust cap, tapping it into place with a hammer. Place the brake caliper near the rotor, carefully remove the wood spacer, and install the caliper. Install the wheel on the hub and tighten the lug nuts. Grasp the top and bottom of the tire and check the bearings as described earlier. Finally, lower the vehicle.

To inspect and service the front wheel bearings, start by securely supporting the vehicle on jackstands and checking each wheel for noise, rolling resistance, and freeplay. If there's any noticeable movement or roughness when attempting to move the wheel in and out, the bearings should be examined. Remove the wheel, then the brake caliper, and pry the grease cap out of the hub. Remove the cotter pin, retaining nut, adjusting nut, and flat washer from the spindle, followed by the hub assembly. Pry out the grease seal from the rear of the hub and remove the inner wheel bearing. Thoroughly clean the bearings, hub, and spindle, inspecting them for any damage. Use high-temperature front wheel bearing grease to repack the bearings and apply a thin coat of grease to the spindle at various points. Add grease inboard of each bearing race inside the hub and place the grease-packed inner bearing into the rear of the hub, followed by a new seal. Carefully install the hub assembly onto the spindle, positioning the grease-packed outer bearing. Tighten the adjusting nut to specified torque while spinning the wheel, then follow tightening and cotter pin installation steps. Finally, install the grease cap, caliper, tire/wheel assembly, and recheck the bearings before lowering the vehicle.

Remove the axle shaft. The seal fits just inside the outer end of the axle shaft housing and ideally a slide hammer should be used to extract it. However, it can be removed using a hammer and chisel, but great care should be taken not to damage the axle housing. otherwise oil will seep past the outside of the new seal. Make a note of which way round the seal is located in the house before removing it; usually the metal clad side of the seal faces toward the roadwheel. Smear some gasket sealer around the outside casing of the new seal and drive it evenly into place using a block of wood or a tubular drift having the same outside diameter as the seal. Using a hammer and sharp chisel, make several deep nicks in the bearing retainer ring. This will release its grip on the axle shaft and allow it to be slid off the shaft. If it is tight however, split with a sharp chisel. Place the axle shaft upside-down in a vise so that the bearing retainer is on the top of the jaws and the axle shaft flange is under them, and using a soft-faced hammer drive the axle shaft through the bearing. If this proves difficult it will be necessary to use a garage press. Note which way round the bearing is fitted. Place the retainer plate and new bearing (correct way round) on the axle shaft. Place the axle shaft vertically between the jaws of a bench vise -flange uppermost, so that the inner track is resting on the top of the vise jaws. Using a soft-faced hammer, drive the axle shaft through the bearing until it is seated fully against the shaft shoulder. The bearing retainer should next be refitted, the sequence for this being the same as for the bearing. Do not attempt to fit the bearing and retainer at one go. Pack the bearing with a little multi-purpose grease. Refit the axle shaft assembly.

Remove the axleshaft and the oil seal. A bearing puller will be required or a tool which will engage behind the bearing will have to be fabricated. Use a slide hammer and puller attachment to remove the axleshaft bearing. Attach a slide hammer and pull the bearing out of the axle housing. Clean out the bearing recess and drive in the new bearing with a bearing driver. A correctly sized bearing driver must be used to drive the bearing into the housing. Lubricate the new bearing with gear lubricant. Make sure that the bearing is tapped into the full depth of its recess. Discard the old oil seal and install a new one, then install the axleshaft.

In most cases, the front wheel bearings will not need servicing until the brake pads are changed. However, they should be checked whenever the front of the vehicle is raised for any reason. Several items, including a torque wrench and special grease, are required for this procedure: Hammer, Grease, Wood block, Needle-nose pliers, Torque wrench, Screwdriver, Socket/breaker bar, Brush. With the vehicle securely supported on jackstands, spin each wheel and check for noise, rolling resistance, and free play. Grasp the top of each tire with one hand and the bottom with the other, moving the wheel in-and-out on the spindle. If there is any noticeable movement, the bearings should be checked and then repacked with grease or replaced if necessary. Remove the wheel and the brake caliper, hanging it out of the way on a piece of wire. A wood block can be slid between the brake pads to keep them separated. Pry the dust cap out of the hub using a screwdriver or hammer and chisel. Straighten the bent ends of the cotter pin, then pull it out of the nut lock. Discard the cotter pin and use a new one during reassembly. Remove the nut lock, nut, and washer from the end of the spindle. Pull the hub/disc assembly out slightly, then push it back into its original position to force the outer bearing off the spindle enough so it can be removed. Pull the hub/disc assembly off the spindle. Use a screwdriver to pry the seal out of the rear of the hub and remove the inner wheel bearing. Use solvent to remove all traces of the old grease from the bearings, hub, and spindle, allowing the parts to air dry. Inspect the bearings for cracks, heat discoloration, worn rollers, etc., and check the bearing races inside the hub for wear and damage. If defective, the hubs should be taken to a machine shop to remove the old races and press new ones in, noting that bearings and races come as matched sets. Use high-temperature front wheel bearing grease to pack the bearings, working it completely into the rollers, cone, and cage from the back side. Apply a thin coat of grease to the spindle at the outer bearing seat, inner bearing seat, shoulder, and seal seat. Put a small quantity of grease inboard of each bearing race inside the hub, forming a dam at these points with your finger. Place the grease-packed inner bearing into the rear of the hub and put a little more grease outboard of the bearing. Place a new seal over the inner bearing and tap it evenly into place with a hammer and blunt punch until it is flush with the hub. Carefully place the hub assembly onto the spindle and push the grease-packed outer bearing into position. Install the washer and spindle nut, tightening the nut only slightly (no more than 12 ft-lbs of torque). Spin the hub in a forward direction while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 20 ft-lbs to seat the bearings. Loosen the spindle nut 1/4-turn, then tighten the nut by hand until it is snug. Install the nut lock and a new cotter pin through the hole in the spindle and the slots in the nut lock, bending the ends of the cotter pin flat against the nut and cutting off any extra length. Install the dust cap, tapping it into place with a hammer. Place the brake caliper near the rotor, carefully remove the wood spacer, and install the caliper. Install the wheel on the hub and tighten the lug nuts. Grasp the top and bottom of the tire and check the bearings as described earlier. Finally, lower the vehicle.

Remove the axle shaft assembly. Using a hammer and sharp chisel make several deep nicks in the bearing retainer ring. This will release its grip on the axle shaft and allow it to be slid off the shaft. If it is tight however, split with a sharp chisel. Place the axle shaft upside-down in a vise so that the bearing retainer is on the top of the jaws and the axle shaft flange is under them, and using a soft-faced hammer drive the axle shaft through the bearing. If this proves difficult it will be necessary to use a garage press. Note which way round the bearing is fitted. Place the retainer plate and new bearing (correct way round) on the shaft. Place the axle shaft vertically between the jaws of a bench vise -flange uppermost, so that the inner track is resting on the top of the vise jaws. Using a soft-faced hammer, drive the axle shaft through the bearing until it is seated fully against the shaft shoulder. The bearing retainer should next be refitted, the sequence for this being the same as for the bearing. Do not attempt to fit the bearing and retainer at one go. Pack the bearing with a little multi-purpose grease. Refit the axle shaft assembly.

Remove the axle shaft. The seal fits just inside the outer end of the axle shaft housing and ideally a slide hammer should be used to extract it. However, it can be removed using a hammer and chisel, but great care should be taken not to damage the axle housing. otherwise oil will seep past the outside of the new seal. Make a note of which way round the seal is located in the house before removing it; usually the metal clad side of the seal faces toward the roadwheel. Smear some gasket sealer around the outside casing of the new seal and drive it evenly into place using a block of wood or a tubular drift having the same outside diameter as the seal. Using a hammer and sharp chisel, make several deep nicks in the bearing retainer ring. This will release its grip on the axle shaft and allow it to be slid off the shaft. If it is tight however, split with a sharp chisel. Place the axle shaft upside-down in a vise so that the bearing retainer is on the top of the jaws and the axle shaft flange is under them, and using a soft-faced hammer drive the axle shaft through the bearing. If this proves difficult it will be necessary to use a garage press. Note which way round the bearing is fitted. Place the retainer plate and new bearing (correct way round) on the axle shaft. Place the axle shaft vertically between the jaws of a bench vise -flange uppermost, so that the inner track is resting on the top of the vise jaws. Using a soft-faced hammer, drive the axle shaft through the bearing until it is seated fully against the shaft shoulder. The bearing retainer should next be refitted, the sequence for this being the same as for the bearing. Do not attempt to fit the bearing and retainer at one go. Pack the bearing with a little multi-purpose grease. Refit the axle shaft assembly.

In most cases, the front wheel bearings will not need servicing until the brake pads are changed. However, these bearings should be checked whenever the front wheels are raised for any reason. With the vehicle securely supported on jack stands, spin the wheel and check for noise, rolling resistance or free play. Grasp the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. If it moves more than 0.005 in, the bearing should be checked, then repacked with grease or replaced as necessary. To remove the bearings for replacing or repacking, begin by removing the hub cap and wheel. Remove the grease cap, using a screwdriver. Straighten and remove the cotter pin and remove the nut lock. With an adjustable wrench or channel-lock-type pliers, remove the lock nut. Remove the flat washer. Grasp the brake rotor firmly and with a slight rocking motion, withdraw the hub from the spindle. Inspection and packing procedures for the wheel bearings can be found. Installing is the reversal of removal but the wheel bearings must be adjusted before the nut lock and cotter pin are fitted. Install the lock nut finger tight and then rock the hub assembly in and out several times to push the brake pads away from the rotor. Install the wheel. While rotating the wheel and hub assembly, tighten the nut to 17 to 25 ft-lb (10 to 15 Nm) to seat the bearings. Loosen the nut one-half turn and then retighten to 10 to 15 lb-in(1.1 to 1.7 Nm). Install the nut lock on the nut so that the castellations on the lock align with the spindle cotter pin hole. Install the cotter pin, bending the ends around the flange of the nut lock. Spin the wheel and hub assembly to check for proper operation. Reinstall the grease cap, using a punch to lock it in position.

Remove the axleshaft and the oil seal. A bearing puller will be required or a tool which will engage behind the bearing will have to be fabricated. Use a slide hammer and puller attachment to remove the axleshaft bearing. Attach a slide hammer and pull the bearing out of the axle housing. Clean out the bearing recess and drive in the new bearing with a bearing driver. A correctly sized bearing driver must be used to drive the bearing into the housing. Lubricate the new bearing with gear lubricant. Make sure that the bearing is tapped into the full depth of its recess. Discard the old oil seal and install a new one, then install the axleshaft.

Remove the axle shaft assembly. Using a hammer and sharp chisel make several deep nicks in the bearing retainer ring. This will release its grip on the axle shaft and allow it to be slid off the shaft. If it is tight however, split with a sharp chisel. Place the axle shaft upside-down in a vise so that the bearing retainer is on the top of the jaws and the axle shaft flange is under them, and using a soft-faced hammer drive the axle shaft through the bearing. If this proves difficult it will be necessary to use a garage press. Note which way round the bearing is fitted. Place the retainer plate and new bearing (correct way round) on the shaft. Place the axle shaft vertically between the jaws of a bench vise -flange uppermost, so that the inner track is resting on the top of the vise jaws. Using a soft-faced hammer, drive the axle shaft through the bearing until it is seated fully against the shaft shoulder. The bearing retainer should next be refitted, the sequence for this being the same as for the bearing. Do not attempt to fit the bearing and retainer at one go. Pack the bearing with a little multi-purpose grease. Refit the axle shaft assembly.

Remove the axleshaft and the oil seal. A bearing puller will be required or a tool which will engage behind the bearing will have to be fabricated. To remove the axle bearing, insert a bearing removal tool attached to a slide hammer through the center, pull the tool up against the back side and use the slide hammer to yank the bearing from the axle housing. Attach a slide hammer and pull the bearing out of the axle housing. Clean out the bearing recess and drive in the new bearing with a bearing driver. A correctly-sized bearing driver must be used to drive the bearing into the housing. Lubricate the new bearing with gear lubricant. Make sure that the bearing is tapped into the full depth of its recess. Discard the old oil seal and install a new one, then install the axleshaft.

The axleshaft bearing can be removed by using a slide hammer and puller attachment.

To inspect and service the front wheel bearings, start by raising the vehicle on jackstands and checking each wheel for noise, rolling resistance, and freeplay. If any noticeable movement is detected when moving the wheel in and out on the spindle, proceed with the following steps. Remove the wheel and brake caliper, then pry out the dust cap to access the components. Remove the cotter pin, nut lock, nut, and washer from the spindle. Force the outer bearing off the spindle by slightly pulling and pushing the hub/disc assembly. Remove the hub/disc assembly from the spindle and pry out the seal from the rear of the hub. Inspect the bearings, races, and hub for wear or damage, replacing them as necessary. Pack the bearings with high-temperature front wheel bearing grease and apply grease to various points on the spindle and hub. Install the inner bearing, seal, and outer bearing, then secure them with the washer and spindle nut. Tighten the spindle nut while spinning the hub to seat the bearings and remove any excess grease. Loosen the nut, snug it by hand, and secure it with a new cotter pin and nut lock. Install the dust cap, brake caliper, and wheel, then lower the vehicle and check the bearings for proper operation.

Regular checks on the steering linkage and suspension components are crucial as worn or damaged parts can lead to abnormal tire wear, diminished ride quality, compromised vehicle handling, and reduced fuel efficiency. To assess the struts, park the vehicle on level ground, turn off the engine, set the parking brake, and check the tire pressures. Push down at each corner, observing the body's movement; it should return to a level position within one or two bounces. Any continuous movement or failure to return indicates potential strut issues. Repeat the check for all corners and, if needed, raise the vehicle on jackstands to inspect shock struts for fluid leakage, ensuring secure mounting. If leakage is detected, replace both struts on the affected end. Additionally, examine front suspension and steering components for damage, leaks, and worn seals. Evaluate ball joints by moving the tire in and out, checking for any play, and replace them if movement is detected. Assess steering system components for play by pushing and pulling the tires and inspect tie-rod ends and steering gear mounts for looseness. For front wheel bearings, check for excessive play by pushing and pulling the tire and listening for abnormal noise during rotation. Lastly, inspect the CV Boot for cracks, tears, holes, or deteriorated rubber, wiping them clean before assessment. If damage is evident, check the CV joints for damage and replace the CV Boot with new ones if necessary.