Ford AGSF-22F-CM Spark Plug

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On these vehicles, the spark plugs are located at the top of the engine. In most cases, the tools necessary for spark plug replacement include a spark plug socket that fits onto a ratchet (spark plug sockets are padded inside to prevent damage to the porcelain insulators on the new plugs), various extensions, and a gap gauge to check and adjust the gaps on the new plugs. A torque wrench should be used to tighten the new plugs. The best approach when replacing the spark plugs is to purchase the new ones in advance, adjust them to the proper gap, and replace the plugs one at a time. When buying the new spark plugs, be sure to obtain the correct plug type for your particular engine. This information can be found in the factory owner's manual. Allow the engine to cool completely before attempting to remove any of the plugs. These engines are equipped with aluminum cylinder heads, which can be damaged if the spark plugs are removed when the engine is hot. While you are waiting for the engine to cool, check the new plugs for defects and adjust the gaps. The gap is checked by inserting the proper-thickness gauge between the electrodes at the tip of the plug. The gap between the electrodes should be the same as the one specified on the Emissions Control Information Label. The gauge should just slide between the electrodes with a slight amount of drag. If the gap is incorrect, use the adjuster on the gauge body to bend the curved side electrode slightly until the proper gap is obtained. To change the gap, bend the side electrode only, and be very careful not to crack or chip the porcelain insulator surrounding the center electrode. If the side electrode is not exactly over the center electrode, bend it with the adjuster until it is. Check for cracks in the porcelain insulator; if any are found, the plug should not be used. It is recommended to use a wire-type gauge when checking platinum- or iridium-type spark plugs. Other types of gauges may scrape the thin coating from the electrodes, thus dramatically shortening the life of the plugs. On V6 engines, remove the engine cover and intake manifold. Some engines are equipped with individual ignition coils, which must be removed first to access the spark plugs. To remove the coils, disconnect the electrical connector, then pull straight up and out to remove the coil. On other engines, remove the spark plug wire from one spark plug. Pull only on the boot at the end of the wire-do not pull on the wire. A plug wire removal tool should be used if available. If compressed air is available, use it to blow any dirt or foreign material away from the spark plug hole. The idea here is to eliminate the possibility of debris falling into the cylinder as the spark plug is removed. Place the spark plug socket over the plug and remove it from the engine by turning it counterclockwise. Use a ratchet and extension to remove the spark plugs. Compare the spark plug to those shown in the photos to get an indication of the general running condition of the engine. Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the spark plug threads. Install one of the new plugs into the hole until you can no longer turn it with your fingers, then tighten it with a torque wrench (if available) or the ratchet. It is a good idea to slip a short length of rubber hose over the end of the plug to use as a tool to thread it into place. The hose will grip the plug well enough to turn it but will start to slip if the plug begins to cross-thread in the hole-this will prevent damaged threads and the accompanying repair costs. On V6 engines, before pushing the ignition coil onto the end of the plug, inspect the ignition coil. On four-cylinder engines, inspect the plug wire. Repeat the procedure for the remaining spark plugs.

Replacement may not be necessary until exceeding 100,000 miles.