Ford 1L5Z-7000-EA Automatic Transmission Assembly

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Disconnect the negative cable from the battery and remove the transmission fluid level dipstick, along with the dipstick tube on 2011 4.0L models. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. For 4WD models, remove the transfer case and take caution to remove the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) from the transfer case. Drain the transmission fluid only if disassembling the transmission, then reinstall the pan; otherwise, you may face disposal issues. Mark one of the torque converter studs and the driveplate with white paint for reassembly. Unbolt the starter and tie it up out of the way. On vehicles with a 3.0L V6 engine, remove the transmission access cover from the converter housing to access the torque converter nuts, using the starter mounting hole for four-cylinder and 4.0L V6 engines. For 2001 and later 2.3L engines, accessing the torque converter nuts through the wheel well may be easier. Remove the four torque converter-to-driveplate nuts, turning the crankshaft clockwise for access, and consider removing the spark plugs for ease. On 2WD models, remove the driveshaft and cover the extension housing with a plastic bag to prevent dirt entry and catch residual fluid. Remove the speedometer cable retaining bracket and disconnect the speedometer cable from the transmission. Disconnect the shift cable from the manual shift lever, the transmission range sensor connector, the 16-pin transmission connector, and any other electrical connectors and brackets attached to the transmission. Place a transmission jack beneath the transmission, applying pressure to slightly raise it, and use safety chains for stability. Remove the bolts and nuts securing the rear mount and insulator to the frame crossmember, then remove the crossmember-to-frame side support mounting bolts and the crossmember itself. Support the engine with a jack, using a block of wood under the oil pan. For V6 engines, remove the catalytic converter. Slightly lower the transmission, ensuring it does not hang free. Disconnect the transmission oil cooler lines and plug them to prevent dirt entry, using a flare nut wrench to avoid rounding off the nuts. Remove the lower converter housing-to-engine bolts and the transmission fluid filler tube. Ensure the transmission is securely mounted on the jack before removing the two upper converter housing-to-engine bolts and the vent tube for 4WD models. Remove the four side converter housing-to-engine bolts, then carefully move the transmission rearward to disengage it from the engine block dowel pins, ensuring the torque converter is detached from the driveplate. Secure the torque converter to the transmission to prevent it from falling out during removal. Installation is the reverse of removal, ensuring the converter hub is fully engaged in the pump gear, aligning the bolt drive lugs and drain plug with the holes in the driveplate, and keeping the transmission level during positioning. Align the studs with the holes in the driveplate, ensuring the white paint marks line up, and carefully move the transmission forward until the dowel pins and torque converter are engaged. When installing the driveplate-to-converter nuts, position the driveplate so the pilot hole is at six o'clock, install one nut through the pilot hole and tighten it, then install the remaining nuts, tightening them to the specified torque with new nuts. Adjust the shift cable, lower the vehicle, and fill the transmission with the specified fluid, running the engine to check for leaks.

To eliminate the transmission, one has to unscrew the negative terminal of the battery and safely lift the car using the jack to place it on the stands, if the car uses Automatic Ride Control, its switch shall be off. Remove the transmission pan and dump its contents, replace it back in its rightful position. On the 4WD models, you have to take out the transfer case, and unscrew the starter, which you should then secure somewhere in order to access the torque converter head nuts. Paint one of the studs and the torque converter with white paint so that they would be easy to reconnect. Loosen the four torque converter-to- drive plate nuts, while turning the crankshaft anticlockwise to get better access. For the 2 wheel drive models, the driveshaft should be unbolted and the extension housing covered to reduce cases of moister and dirt penetration. Remove the speedometer cable from the VSS if there is a cable or pull out the electrical connector in case of electric VSS. Pull the transmission shift cable / kickdown cable out of the transmission, then unplug electrical connectors on the harness, stow the harness aside. Jack up the transmission by placing a transmission jack below the transmission and exert some pressure to lift it slightly and use chains to secure it to prevent any accidents. Eliminate the transmission mount and cross member; place jack under the engine and use a block of wood at the oil pan. Lower the engine and transmission slightly and unbolt the two transmission oil cooler lines and plug them. As for the lower transmission-to-engine bolts, and dipstick tube, then, they must be undone with the same manner of bolts that secure the tube to the cylinderhead. Safeguard the transmission on the jack and take off the two upper transmission to engine bolts. Slowly shift the transmission backward in order to come off the dowel pins on engine block; ensure that torque converter has come off the drive plate. To install, reverse the above process you have to ensure that the convert hub is tightly engaged in the pump gear and ensure that the bolt drive lugs and the drain plug are perfectly located in the drive plate holes. After this raise the transmission to a parallel position with the ground to ensure that the gears mesh together properly, align the hole in the drive plate with the stud with the help of the white marks that have been painted on the plate then slowly advance the transmission forward until it engages. Fit the numerous drive plate-to-converter nuts, using first one nut through the pilot hole and then fasten it, followed by the other nuts. Loosen the shift cable, decrease the height of the car, add the required type of the transmission fluid, start the engine, and examine the presence of any leakage.

Turn the crankshaft in a clockwise direction only (as viewed from the front). You can remove the spark plugs to make this easier.