Ford F1SZ-6675-A Pan Assembly - Engine Oil

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Disconnect the battery cable to remove the oil pan, take off the air cleaner assembly, fan shroud, dipstick for oil level, oil level sensor switch, vacuum solenoids, and exhaust crossover pipe, and disconnect the transmission cooler lines, torque converter cover, starter motor fuel lines, and steering gear bolts. Loosen transmission mount nuts, remove the front engine mount through bolts, and lift the engine slightly with a jack. Place wooden blocks between mounts and subframe; remove oil pan mounting bolts. Use a rubber mallet or wood block and hammer to separate the pan from the block. Remove the oil pump and pick up the tube fasteners.

To replace the oil pan, first, disconnect the car's negative terminal, followed by the removal of the air cleaner duct assembly. Subsequently, remove wiper arms and module, and weather strip and the plastic shield on the cowl. If fitted, unbolt the crankshaft position sensor cover and, in case of supercharged variants, the intercooler pipes. Bolt an engine support fixture as close as possible to the lifting eyes by the exhaust manifolds, and then lift it and securely set on supporting jackstands. Take out the oil level dipstick and disconnect the oil level sensor from the oil pan and thereafter, drain the engine oil and finally remove the oil filter. In the case where automatic transmission is used, remove the transmission cooler lines at the radiator. There will be constant connections to most of the starter motor assembly which includes the wire harness, the ground strap as well as the steering flex coupling which should be disconnected. The through bolts at the front engine mounts and the side mount retainer strap if used should be unbolted. Place a transmission jack or floor jack under the crossmember beneath the oil pan Pull the six bolts of the back part of the crossmember and free the two bolts of the front part. Loosen and take off the nuts and bolts that joins the shock absorber to the control arm, finish detaching the nuts from the crossmember and lower it. Loosen the oil pan to bell housing and block mounting bolts and by using a large rubber mallet or a piece of wood and a hammer to carefully knock off the oil pan from the block so as not to score the sealing surface. For installation, use a gasket scraper or a putty knife scrape off the old gasket material and sealant from the pan and block, without causing scratches on the aluminium surfaces. Scrub the surfaces and the holes, and install a new rear seal, while applying RTV material to put pressure to the new seal and put a RTV around the block. Place the pan onto the block and loosely fit the bolts and make sure that gaskets have not moved and tighten the bolts to the required torque with a pattern of tightening with the center bolt first. The rest of the steps are the opposite of the removal process and do not forget to add oil into the engine before the starting of the engine. Inspection after starting the engine should be done to check for oil leaks round the oil pan it and after driving the vehicle check again.

Disconnect the battery cable and drain the oil after removing the filter, to remove the oil pan. Remove the exhaust pipe and fan shroud as well as the starter motor. All nuts should be loosened and brackets through bolts removed. Raise the engine using a jack, remove pan bolts, and maneuver the pan out. You can clean components, inspect for wear, replace O-ring as necessary, place gasket on pan and pick-up tube then reinstall them. Further, bolts should be tightened up; surfaces cleaned and secure fastening ensured. Fill with oil, start the engine, and check for leaks.

Some of the models from 1986 to 1990 utilizing the aluminum oil pan will require a one-piece gasket while other models will require a four-piece gasket. Start by aligning the number one piston at the Top Dead Center, to do this is also align the number four piston so as to allow for oil pan removal. Remove the negative battery terminal, safely lift the car on jack stands and drain the coolant, oil, and also remove the oil filter. Remove low oil level sensor if fixed on the oil pan and go ahead and remove the engine mounts to facilitate engine lifiting. Place a piece of wood beneath the oil pan to protect it when lifting the engine Then also take the steering gear and the chassis stiffening brace off. Remove the bolts of the sway bar and the starter motor and the bolts of the oil pan and reinforcements. Remove the gasket seal and separate the pan, all the previous gasket material on the surface should be scraped off and the surface cleaned. For installation bolt the oil pan gasket into place by using adhesive if it is one piece gasket or the sealer if it is a four-piece gasket and then the oil pump and pick-up tube if they have been removed. They are guide pins since they help in aligning the oil pan then you are supposed to install the oil pan, bolts and tighten them in a clockwise fashion. For those manufactured from 1991 you should first, remove the battery black terminal, the air intake outlet leading to the cylinder, shed off the engine oil, and ignite the jack. Take out the starter, unbolt the exhaust manifold, and unbolt/OEM clip the engine mounts. Lift up the engine and pull of the oil pan to transmission bolts; then the transmission; followed by the flywheel and oil cooler lines less the dipstick tube. Remove the gasket seal and disconnect the oil pan: rtv and wipe all the external and internal part. Clean and coat the block with silicone gasket and sealant, fit the oil pan gasket, and fit the oil pump drive and pick-up tube assembly. Replace bolt and pan along with the gaskets and tighten it, then fit the fly wheel along with the transmission. Last but not least, lower the engine, fix the engine mounts, tighten all bolts as per the torque setting, and replace the oil filter and the oil, and, then start the engine to look for the leaks.

Disconnect the battery cable to remove the oil pan, take off the air cleaner assembly, fan shroud, dipstick for oil level, oil level sensor switch, vacuum solenoids, and exhaust crossover pipe, and disconnect the transmission cooler lines, torque converter cover, starter motor fuel lines, and steering gear bolts. Loosen transmission mount nuts, remove the front engine mount through bolts, and lift the engine slightly with a jack. Place wooden blocks between mounts and subframe; remove oil pan mounting bolts. Use a rubber mallet or wood block and hammer to separate the pan from the block. Remove the oil pump and pick up the tube fasteners.

To replace the oil pan, first, disconnect the car's negative terminal, followed by the removal of the air cleaner duct assembly. Subsequently, remove wiper arms and module, and weather strip and the plastic shield on the cowl. If fitted, unbolt the crankshaft position sensor cover and, in case of supercharged variants, the intercooler pipes. Bolt an engine support fixture as close as possible to the lifting eyes by the exhaust manifolds, and then lift it and securely set on supporting jackstands. Take out the oil level dipstick and disconnect the oil level sensor from the oil pan and thereafter, drain the engine oil and finally remove the oil filter. In the case where automatic transmission is used, remove the transmission cooler lines at the radiator. There will be constant connections to most of the starter motor assembly which includes the wire harness, the ground strap as well as the steering flex coupling which should be disconnected. The through bolts at the front engine mounts and the side mount retainer strap if used should be unbolted. Place a transmission jack or floor jack under the crossmember beneath the oil pan Pull the six bolts of the back part of the crossmember and free the two bolts of the front part. Loosen and take off the nuts and bolts that joins the shock absorber to the control arm, finish detaching the nuts from the crossmember and lower it. Loosen the oil pan to bell housing and block mounting bolts and by using a large rubber mallet or a piece of wood and a hammer to carefully knock off the oil pan from the block so as not to score the sealing surface. For installation, use a gasket scraper or a putty knife scrape off the old gasket material and sealant from the pan and block, without causing scratches on the aluminium surfaces. Scrub the surfaces and the holes, and install a new rear seal, while applying RTV material to put pressure to the new seal and put a RTV around the block. Place the pan onto the block and loosely fit the bolts and make sure that gaskets have not moved and tighten the bolts to the required torque with a pattern of tightening with the center bolt first. The rest of the steps are the opposite of the removal process and do not forget to add oil into the engine before the starting of the engine. Inspection after starting the engine should be done to check for oil leaks round the oil pan it and after driving the vehicle check again.

Complete the installation steps in reverse, ensuring all traces of old gasket material are removed, the mating surfaces are clean, and the oil pan is securely fastened.

Complete the remaining steps in reverse, start the engine, and check for oil leaks.

Clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone and ensure the bolt holes in the block are clean.

Remove the reinforcement brackets on both sides of the engine block and loosen the nuts holding the transmission mount to the crossmember.

Disconnect the steering flex coupling and remove the two bolts attaching the steering gear to the subframe. Let the steering gear rest on the subframe away from the oil pan.

Clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. Make sure the block and front cover bolt holes are clean.

Clean all mating surfaces and seal grooves.

Loosen the nuts holding the transmission mount to the crossmember, but don't remove them completely. This will allow the engine/transmission assembly to be moved up, providing clearance for oil pan removal.