Ford 2L3Z-6108-AA Piston And Pin Assembly

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They must be completely removed with a special tool called a ridge reamer, following the manufacturer's instructions.

If the pistons and cylinder walls are not damaged or excessively worn, and if the engine block is not rebored, new pistons are not necessary. However, new piston rings should always be used when an engine is rebuilt.

Keep the back sides of the bearing inserts and the insides of the connecting rods and caps perfectly clean, ensure the correct piston/rod assembly for each cylinder, and lubricate the cylinder walls and bearing faces.

Each piston should be carefully inspected for cracks around the skirt, at the pin bosses, and at the ring lands.

Before removing the connecting rods, check the endplay with a dial indicator or feeler gauges. Slide the gauge between the first connecting rod and the crankshaft throw until the play is removed. The endplay is equal to the thickness of the feeler gauge(s). If the endplay exceeds the service limit, new connecting rods will be required. If new rods or a new crankshaft are installed, the endplay may fall under the specified minimum, and the rods will need to be machined to restore it.

To protect the rod journals, take two rod cap bolts, cut the heads off, and slot the end of the "studs" with a hacksaw. Cover the non-threaded portion with rubber tubing and screw the studs into the rod to act as guides during the assembly or disassembly.

The connecting rod bolts on all engines covered by this manual are "torque-to-yield" bolts and are NOT reusable. Once removed, they must be replaced with new bolts.

If the clearance is not as specified, check for dirt or oil between the bearing inserts and the connecting rod or cap, recheck the journal diameter, and if necessary, replace the bearing with an undersize bearing.