Ford F1SZ-6701-A Seal Assy - Crankshaft Oil

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Before replacement of the front oil seal, you should drain the cooling system and then also remove the fan shroud, the radiator, the fan as well as the pulley. On 7.5L engines, remove the final drive belt. Next, unscrew the big nut and washer from the crankshaft nose but make sure that the crankshaft will not turns. Using a good puller, remove the vibration damper, then by the use of chisel and hammer, remove the old seal from the timing cover and from the crank shaft as well. Sweep the groove in the cover, apply motor oil in the circumference of the new sealing ring, and then insert it in place together with a seal driver or a large socket, making sure the spring is rightly placed. Engine oil should be applied on the crankshaft nose, the inner part of the vibration damper, including the seal seat, and keyway of the damper hub should be coated with RTV sealant. Position the damper keyway in line with the crankshaft key; engage the damper and bolt and washer and tighten to the specified torque rating. After removal, the operations are in the opposite sequence of installation; the next steps for the engine are refilling with oil and coolant and running through of the leak test whereby the engine is started immediately after installation. Regarding the rear main oil seal, all the VB engines up to 1983 used a two part seal while starting from 1984 the engines used a one part seal, apart from the 7.5L engine which remained using the two part seal. To change the two-piece seal, one will have to drop the oil pan to have access, loosen the main bearing cap screws by about ¼ turn, and then pull the rear main bearing cap to pull out the oil seal. To remove the part of the seal in the block, one will require a small sheet metal screw and it should not be used with force considering the delicate crank shaft surfaces. Remove carbon deposits and dirt from the grooves in the cap and block, coat the new seal halves with clean engine oil and fit the upper seal with the lip at the front of the engine and it should project as per the standard. Torque the main bearing cap bolts, fit the lower seal in the cap, use some RTV sealant on the surfaces that touch each other and put back the rear main bearing cap in such a way that the seals will align well. Closely torque the cap bolts, fit the oil pan and the oil pump and then carry on with the reverse procedure. Last but not the least, add the oil and coolant in the engine and look for any sign of leakage once the engine has been started.

To change the front seal, you'll have to take out the fan/clutch assembly; the fan shroud and drivebelt; the crankshaft pulley/vibration damper, and finally remove the old front Crankshaft Seal with care. Inspect for damage. It comes in with the open side facing in, lubricate it with engine oil, and drive it into the bore. Lubricate the lip of the seal, and install the damper onto the crankshaft paying attention to its alignment with the Woodruff key. Tighten up this bolt on a damper, put back the fan/clutch assembly and shroud, and restore a drive belt. To replace the rear seal, disconnect the battery cable, remove the drain plate then the back cover plate or backup housing. Remove the retaining ring or snap ring and discard the gasket material or old sealer.

To change the front seal, you'll have to take out the fan/clutch assembly; the fan shroud and drivebelt; the crankshaft pulley/vibration damper, and finally remove the old front Crankshaft Seal with care. Inspect for damage. It comes in with the open side facing in, lubricate it with engine oil, and drive it into the bore. Lubricate the lip of the seal, and install the damper onto the crankshaft paying attention to its alignment with the Woodruff key. Tighten up this bolt on a damper, put back the fan/clutch assembly and shroud, and restore a drive belt. To replace the rear seal, disconnect the battery cable, remove the drain plate then the back cover plate or backup housing. Remove the retaining ring or snap ring and discard the gasket material or old sealer.

First of all, to replace the front Crankshaft Seal with the timing chain cover in place, remove the fan shroud, fan/clutch assembly, and drive belts. Extract the crankshaft bolt, and use a puller to detach the vibration damper. Care should be taken not to damage the cover or seal bore as you remove it using a special tool or a chisel and hammer. Inspect for any damage. Use a special tool or a socket and hammer to install the new seal. For engines with the timing chain cover removed, drive out the seal, clean the bore, and install the new seal with a socket and hammer. The procedure for rear main oil seals differs depending on whether one-piece or two-piece seals are used. To replace a one-piece seal, you need to take out the transmission, drive plate, and rear cover plate first. Remove this old one by prying off carefully then clean up back in there before applying both oil and grease on a new one that is pressed in place.

First of all, to replace the front Crankshaft Seal with the timing chain cover in place, remove the fan shroud, fan/clutch assembly, and drive belts. Extract the crankshaft bolt, and use a puller to detach the vibration damper. Care should be taken not to damage the cover or seal bore as you remove it using a special tool or a chisel and hammer. Inspect for any damage. Use a special tool or a socket and hammer to install the new seal. For engines with the timing chain cover removed, drive out the seal, clean the bore, and install the new seal with a socket and hammer. The procedure for rear main oil seals differs depending on whether one-piece or two-piece seals are used. To replace a one-piece seal, you need to take out the transmission, drive plate, and rear cover plate first. Remove this old one by prying off carefully then clean up back in there before applying both oil and grease on a new one that is pressed in place.

To replace the front seal, there is need to first remove the negative terminal of the battery, then follow the removal of the; fan assembly and shroud, the drivebelt and if equipped upper and lower shields. Place a mark on the crankshaft pulley and on the vibration damper so as to guide it when it will be reassembled, unscrew and take out the pulley and remove the vibration with a puller in order not to damage it. Scrub the crankshaft nose and the seal contact face and slightly pry out the worn out seal with the bore and crankshaft being checked for any signs of damage. If necessary, fit or rivet a special sleeve over any grooves in the balancer to obviate leakage. Smooth some oil to the lip of new seal and push it in to the bore until it fits tightly and you may use a socket or pipe of equal diameter. This is where balance pins are normally situated and if placing a new vibration damper, then balance pins should be well placed and the contact surface greased or oiled. Calling face the damper with the Woodruff key and set it with a soft-face hammer; then replace all other parts + and start the motor and check for leaks. For the rear seal, just drop the transmission and the flywheel/Drive plate, then just gently pry out the old seal without having to scratch the Crank shaft. Scrub the internal cylinder and the crankshaft and look for more damage, lubricate the edge of the new seal and than put it in the cylinder nicely and if possible use the tool. Last and before anything else, replace the rear cover plate, the flywheel or drive plate, as well as the transmission.

To change the front seal, you'll have to take out the fan/clutch assembly; the fan shroud and drivebelt; the crankshaft pulley/vibration damper, and finally remove the old front Crankshaft Seal with care. Inspect for damage. It comes in with the open side facing in, lubricate it with engine oil, and drive it into the bore. Lubricate the lip of the seal, and install the damper onto the crankshaft paying attention to its alignment with the Woodruff key. Tighten up this bolt on a damper, put back the fan/clutch assembly and shroud, and restore a drive belt. To replace the rear seal, disconnect the battery cable, remove the drain plate then the back cover plate or backup housing. Remove the retaining ring or snap ring and discard the gasket material or old sealer.

To replace the front seal, there is need to first remove the negative terminal of the battery, then follow the removal of the; fan assembly and shroud, the drivebelt and if equipped upper and lower shields. Place a mark on the crankshaft pulley and on the vibration damper so as to guide it when it will be reassembled, unscrew and take out the pulley and remove the vibration with a puller in order not to damage it. Scrub the crankshaft nose and the seal contact face and slightly pry out the worn out seal with the bore and crankshaft being checked for any signs of damage. If necessary, fit or rivet a special sleeve over any grooves in the balancer to obviate leakage. Smooth some oil to the lip of new seal and push it in to the bore until it fits tightly and you may use a socket or pipe of equal diameter. This is where balance pins are normally situated and if placing a new vibration damper, then balance pins should be well placed and the contact surface greased or oiled. Calling face the damper with the Woodruff key and set it with a soft-face hammer; then replace all other parts + and start the motor and check for leaks. For the rear seal, just drop the transmission and the flywheel/Drive plate, then just gently pry out the old seal without having to scratch the Crank shaft. Scrub the internal cylinder and the crankshaft and look for more damage, lubricate the edge of the new seal and than put it in the cylinder nicely and if possible use the tool. Last and before anything else, replace the rear cover plate, the flywheel or drive plate, as well as the transmission.

Before replacement of the front oil seal, you should drain the cooling system and then also remove the fan shroud, the radiator, the fan as well as the pulley. On 7.5L engines, remove the final drive belt. Next, unscrew the big nut and washer from the crankshaft nose but make sure that the crankshaft will not turns. Using a good puller, remove the vibration damper, then by the use of chisel and hammer, remove the old seal from the timing cover and from the crank shaft as well. Sweep the groove in the cover, apply motor oil in the circumference of the new sealing ring, and then insert it in place together with a seal driver or a large socket, making sure the spring is rightly placed. Engine oil should be applied on the crankshaft nose, the inner part of the vibration damper, including the seal seat, and keyway of the damper hub should be coated with RTV sealant. Position the damper keyway in line with the crankshaft key; engage the damper and bolt and washer and tighten to the specified torque rating. After removal, the operations are in the opposite sequence of installation; the next steps for the engine are refilling with oil and coolant and running through of the leak test whereby the engine is started immediately after installation. Regarding the rear main oil seal, all the VB engines up to 1983 used a two part seal while starting from 1984 the engines used a one part seal, apart from the 7.5L engine which remained using the two part seal. To change the two-piece seal, one will have to drop the oil pan to have access, loosen the main bearing cap screws by about ¼ turn, and then pull the rear main bearing cap to pull out the oil seal. To remove the part of the seal in the block, one will require a small sheet metal screw and it should not be used with force considering the delicate crank shaft surfaces. Remove carbon deposits and dirt from the grooves in the cap and block, coat the new seal halves with clean engine oil and fit the upper seal with the lip at the front of the engine and it should project as per the standard. Torque the main bearing cap bolts, fit the lower seal in the cap, use some RTV sealant on the surfaces that touch each other and put back the rear main bearing cap in such a way that the seals will align well. Closely torque the cap bolts, fit the oil pan and the oil pump and then carry on with the reverse procedure. Last but not the least, add the oil and coolant in the engine and look for any sign of leakage once the engine has been started.

When the front seal is wanting of replacement, there's a necessity to start with the fan/clutch assembly and shroud, the drive belt and then the crankshaft pulley/ vibration damper. Remove the seal from the cover gently using a seal removal tool or a screw driver without causing any scratch on the crankshaft. If the timing cover is removed, the seal can be knocked into the housing from the back side with chisel or a small punch while and covering the end of the housing with wooden blocks in order not to harm the cover. The seal bore and the crankshaft are wear prone and should therefore be checked for nicks and burrs before a new seal is fitted with the open end facing inwards and smeared lightly with oil or grease for easy fitting. Tighten the seal in the bore with a large socket and hammer till it bottoms out and the socket is at least the diameter of the seal. It is recommended to lubricate the seal lip by clean engine oil after which orient the damper key way and the Woodruff key is fitted accordingly. If required, give the damper a tap with a soft-face hammer into position or use the bolt to lock it into place. Replace the drivebelt and also the fan/clutch, if any, that may have been removed to access the timing chain, then engage the engine among other parts that were removed to ensure that there are no leaks. Of the two, the rear one requires having the negative battery terminal disconnected together with the transmission, the driveplate, and the rear cover plate. Remove the bolts and unfasten the seal retainer and remove the old gasket or sealant as well. Place the seal and retainer assembly on wooden blocks and drive the old seal out from the back side. Place the new seal into the retainer but do not cock it in the bore then tap it in using a wooden block. Crankshaft and seal bore should be cleaned and the contact surface of the seal checked for any signs of abuse. Before installing the new crankshaft seal, the crankshaft seal journal and the new seal lip have to be coated with the engine oil and on the engine block or seal retainer, a small amount of RTV sealant must be applied. The oil seal retainer should be fit carefully and the seal should be placed on the crankshaft of the engine with the help of a suitable instrument. Check the retainer bolts, replace new rear cover plate, drive plate and the transmission the steps of removal must be done in reverse. Last but not the least, one should inspect the level of the oil and if it requires it should add the oil and check the engine for any signs of leakage of the same.

Among the tasks connected with the crankshaft is to remove and install the crankshaft pulley which means that one should first remove the drive belt and then the crankshaft pulley bolt though according to the manufacturer's advice, one should replace the bolt every time it is loosed. If necessary, a longer, smaller diameter bolt should be threaded into the crankshaft to give anchor point for the puller, and the puller which bolts onto the pulley hub must be used, since damaged crankshaft damper can be caused by jaw-type pullers. On the surface of the pulley where the front seal rides, apply clean engine oil and then fit the crankshaft pulley with the aid of an installation tool, do not hammer on it, then tighten the pulley bolt to the specified torque. For front oil seal replacement remove the crankshaft pulley and gently push out the oil seal clean the bore of the seal and check for nick or gauges. Wipe a drop of clean engine oil on the lip of the new seal before pushing it into the corresponding bore by use of a suitable tool, ensure the open side is towards the engine then fit the crankshaft pulley. To have access to the Timing Cover, there are many other components that you need to take off, and these include the crankshaft pulley and timing sensor, the cooling system have to be drained, and the engine cooling fan and the radiator has to be taken off. Remove the air conditioning compressor and bracket, not severing any refrigerant lines, also, take out the oil pan and water pump, and any hoses that would be required for their removal. You have to take off brackets, studs, and cover bolts during your work, which have to be marked so that they might be fastened in their proper positions again. Remove carefully the cover, check if all the bolts or studs have been removed and if they are seized / rusted, gently apply a knock gently or pry to break the gasket seal. For service, assemble and check the parts removing gasket material and oil film on all surfaces, on TC applications, remove and reinstall the guide sleeves, install the front cover with a new gasket and tighten the bolts by hand. Finally, adjust the cover bolts equally and done in an opposite sequence to a manner in which the above components were removed. Last but not the least let the engine be on and observe if there is any oil and coolant leakage.

Make sure the engine block is clean to ensure a proper fit.

Start by removing the fan shroud, fan/clutch assembly, and drivebelts. Extract the bolt from the front of the crankshaft and use a puller to detach the vibration damper.

Start the seal in the recess and install it with tool T82L-6701-A. Alternatively, use a hammer and socket the same diameter as the seal to drive the seal into the bore.

Check the seal bore and crankshaft, as well as the seal contact surface on the vibration damper for nicks and burrs. Position the new seal in the bore with the open end of the seal facing IN. A small amount of oil applied to the outer edge of the new seal will make installation easier.

Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

Clean the crankshaft nose and the seal contact surface on the pulley with lacquer thinner or acetone, and leave the Woodruff key in place in the crankshaft keyway.

Coat the outer edge of the new seal with engine oil and install it using a seal driver (available at most auto parts stores). Alternatively, a large socket or piece of pipe can be used to push the new seal in, but use extreme caution to avoid damaging the seal.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

The first step is to remove the transmission.

The rear main oil seal replacement is a time-consuming job that requires several special tools. It is advised to read through the procedure and obtain the necessary tools before beginning.

Check the seal bore in the timing chain cover for nicks or burrs.

The remainder of the installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Align the damper keyway with the key on the crankshaft and install the damper using an installation tool (available at most auto parts stores).

Remove the drive belt.