Ford E7ZZ-6571-A Seal - Valve Stem

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Cylinder head removal is not always necessary to replace broken valve springs and or defective valve stem seals as these jobs usually require the use of only two tools and compressed air. In absence of compressed air one can use a length of nylon rope so that the valves do not fall into the cylinder. Start with the elimination of the valve cover of the cylinder head in question and, if all valve stem seals are to be changed, both covers should be removed. Second, take off the spark plug of the cylinder containing the faulty component and if replacing all seals thus take off all spark plugs. Operate the crankshaft in a circular manner until the piston in the damaged cylinder is aligned at the top dead center on the compression stroke; do this cylinder by cylinder starting with cylinder one in the firing order sequence 1-4-2-5-3-6. Insert a spark plug thread an adapter into the spark plug hole and attach an air hose to it from a compressed air. If compressed air is not available, place the piston just prior to top dead center of the compression stroke and insert a long length of nylon string through the spark plug hole and into the combustion chamber until all of but one end of the string is pulled out for removal. Jam the shop rag into the cylinder head holes so that parts do not go into the engine, and using valve spring compressor, compress the spring/damper, then remove the keepers with the tips of a needle-nose plier or magnet. Pull off the spring retainer or rotator, the sleeve, the valve spring and the guide seal. If air pressure is not sufficient to close the valve it will cause valve face or the seat to wear and to address this; you will have to remove the cylinder head. Put a rubber band or tape around the upper part of the valve stem so it does not fall into the combustion chamber and then deflate the tire. Check for such things as on the valve stem that the head should not bind in the guide; if it does, the head will require removal to be fixed. Put the air pressure back on to lock the valve shut, then take out the tape or rubber band. Use a drop of engine oil on the valve stem and fit a new rubber suction cup to the stem; put the spring arrangement in place on the stem of the valve on another side. Screw in the valve spring retainer or rotator, squeeze the spring and put the keepers in the grooves, using the grease to maintain position if required. Withdraw the rope, if any used, and turn off the air hose and detach the adapter inserted into the spark plug hole. Last, fit the rocker arm(s) and the push rod(s), the spark plug(s) & wire(s) and the valve cover(s) tighten and start the engine look out for oil leakage and some unusual sound emanating from the valve cover part.

Cylinder head removal is not always necessary to replace broken valve springs and or defective valve stem seals as these jobs usually require the use of only two tools and compressed air. In absence of compressed air one can use a length of nylon rope so that the valves do not fall into the cylinder. Start with the elimination of the valve cover of the cylinder head in question and, if all valve stem seals are to be changed, both covers should be removed. Second, take off the spark plug of the cylinder containing the faulty component and if replacing all seals thus take off all spark plugs. Operate the crankshaft in a circular manner until the piston in the damaged cylinder is aligned at the top dead center on the compression stroke; do this cylinder by cylinder starting with cylinder one in the firing order sequence 1-4-2-5-3-6. Insert a spark plug thread an adapter into the spark plug hole and attach an air hose to it from a compressed air. If compressed air is not available, place the piston just prior to top dead center of the compression stroke and insert a long length of nylon string through the spark plug hole and into the combustion chamber until all of but one end of the string is pulled out for removal. Jam the shop rag into the cylinder head holes so that parts do not go into the engine, and using valve spring compressor, compress the spring/damper, then remove the keepers with the tips of a needle-nose plier or magnet. Pull off the spring retainer or rotator, the sleeve, the valve spring and the guide seal. If air pressure is not sufficient to close the valve it will cause valve face or the seat to wear and to address this; you will have to remove the cylinder head. Put a rubber band or tape around the upper part of the valve stem so it does not fall into the combustion chamber and then deflate the tire. Check for such things as on the valve stem that the head should not bind in the guide; if it does, the head will require removal to be fixed. Put the air pressure back on to lock the valve shut, then take out the tape or rubber band. Use a drop of engine oil on the valve stem and fit a new rubber suction cup to the stem; put the spring arrangement in place on the stem of the valve on another side. Screw in the valve spring retainer or rotator, squeeze the spring and put the keepers in the grooves, using the grease to maintain position if required. Withdraw the rope, if any used, and turn off the air hose and detach the adapter inserted into the spark plug hole. Last, fit the rocker arm(s) and the push rod(s), the spark plug(s) & wire(s) and the valve cover(s) tighten and start the engine look out for oil leakage and some unusual sound emanating from the valve cover part.

Valve springs and valve stem seals can be replaced without removal of cylinder head; normally it requires two special tools and compressed air. If there is no compressed air the valves can be secured in place using a length of nylon rope to stop them falling into the cylinder. Start with the removal of the camshaft cover, spark plug from Cylinder head with defective component or all spark plugs where replacing all valve stem seals. Rotate the crankshaft until the piston in the affected cylinder is at the TDC of the compression stroke and if doing all the seals, start with cylinder number one and do in the firing order sequence. Take an adapter and insert it into the spark plug fitting that is frequently used in connection with your air hose, and use the compressed air in order to secure the valves. In case of lack of air pressure, place the piston as near to top dead centre as possible on the compression stroke and push into the combustion chamber a nylon rope with its end left exposed for withdrawal. Plug up the cylinder head holes with shop rags so that no contaminants can get into the engine, then, use a valve spring compressor to compress the spring. After compressing the spring, take out the cam follower and the lash adjuster, the keepers, the spring retainer, the damper assembly and the valve spring. Remove the valve stem seal and if air pressure cannot retain the valve closed, you may be looking at a hassle with the valve face or seat that would require removal of the cylinder heads to have it fixed. Put a piece of a rubber band or an adhesive tape around the valve stem with the intention of preventing it from falling off.Now, allow the pressure to fade and give the valve stem a good check to ensure it rotates in the guide as required. Reverse the valve to keep it shut by applying air pressure, apply engine oil the valve stem and fit a new umbrella type guide seal. Put the installation cap on the stem of the valve, fit the valve stem seal over the cap and screw down till the seal is in contact with the guide. Take off the cap and insert, with a special installation tool or screwdrivers, the seal to the valve guide. It fits the valve spring, damper and retainer; compress the spring then fit the keepers; lash adjuster to be fitted along with cam follower. Release from the spark plug hole the air hose and the adapter if used or pull out the used rope as well. Last, replace the parts that were unbolted, turn on the engine, and look for possible signs like dripping oil or foreign noises emanating from the region of the camshaft cover.

Remove the keepers with a small pair of needle-nose pliers, a magnet, or forceps.

The exhaust valve seals are identified by the marking "EX".

Critical inspections and precautions include checking for valve face or seat damage, inspecting the valve stem, installing a new seal, reassembling the components, and checking for leaks or unusual sounds after engine startup.

Specific tools and a compressed air source are needed.

The valve spring compressor, utilizing the camshaft as a pivot point, applies pressure to release tension on the cam follower, while the spring spacer prevents over-compression.

Specific tools and a compressed air source are needed.

Wrap a rubber band or tape around the top of the valve stem, then release the air pressure. If a rope was used instead of air pressure, turn the crankshaft slightly in the direction opposite normal rotation.

Critical inspections and precautions include checking for valve face or seat damage, inspecting the valve stem, installing a new seal, reassembling the components, and checking for leaks or unusual sounds after engine startup.

Remove the valve cover from the cylinder head(s). If all of the valve stem seals are being replaced, remove both valve covers.

The valve stem should be inspected for damage, lubricated, and a new valve guide seal should be installed.

Install the spark plug(s) and connect the wire(s).

Disconnect the air hose and remove the adapter from the spark plug hole. If a rope was used, pull it out of the cylinder.

Yes, broken valve springs and defective valve stem seals can be replaced without removing the cylinder head.

Place the valve spring in position, then install the retainer.

No, the intake and exhaust valve seals on the 7.5L engine are different and are not interchangeable.