Lincoln F75Z-6303-AC Crankshaft Assembly

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The crankshaft can only be removed after the engine has been taken out of the vehicle, assuming that the flywheel or driveplate, vibration damper, timing chain(s) or gears, oil pan, oil pump, and piston/connecting rod assemblies have already been detached. Before starting the crankshaft removal, check the end play using a dial indicator aligned with the crankshaft; push the crankshaft to the rear and zero the indicator, then pry it to the front to measure the movement, which indicates end play. If a dial indicator is unavailable, feeler gauges can be used to determine clearance by prying the crankshaft forward and inserting the gauges between it and the thrust main bearing. Ensure the main bearing caps are marked for their locations; if not, number them accordingly. For V6 engines, the thrust bearing is located at the number three main bearing cap, which has upper and lower thrust bearing shells. Loosen the main bearing cap bolts/studs gradually until they can be removed by hand, noting any stud bolts for proper reinstallation. V8 engines have a more complex procedure due to the number of bolts fastening the main caps; for 4.6LREP models, remove side bolts, back off jack screws, and for 5.4L and WEP-design 4.6L engines, remove side bolts without jacking screws. Remove the main bearing cap bolts in reverse order of tightening, ensuring to pull dowel pins from the main caps on WEP 4.6L and 5.4L engines. The main bearing cap bolts are torque-to-yield and must be replaced after removal, while jack screws on REP engines are reusable. Gently tap the caps with a soft-face hammer to separate them from the block, using bolts as levers if necessary, and avoid dropping bearing inserts. Lift the crankshaft out carefully, possibly with assistance, and return the bearing inserts to their respective locations on the engine block, tightening the caps finger tight.

The crankshaft can only be removed after the engine has been taken out of the vehicle, assuming that the flywheel or driveplate, vibration damper, timing chain(s) or gears, oil pan, oil pump, and piston/connecting rod assemblies have already been detached. Before starting the crankshaft removal, check the end play using a dial indicator aligned with the crankshaft; push the crankshaft to the rear and zero the indicator, then pry it to the front to measure the movement, which indicates end play. If a dial indicator is unavailable, feeler gauges can be used to determine clearance by prying the crankshaft forward and inserting the gauges between it and the thrust main bearing. Ensure the main bearing caps are marked for their locations; if not, number them accordingly. For V6 engines, the thrust bearing is located at the number three main bearing cap, which has upper and lower thrust bearing shells. Loosen the main bearing cap bolts/studs gradually until they can be removed by hand, noting any stud bolts for proper reinstallation. V8 engines have a more complex procedure due to the number of bolts fastening the main caps; for 4.6LREP models, remove side bolts, back off jack screws, and for 5.4L and WEP-design 4.6L engines, remove side bolts without jacking screws. Remove the main bearing cap bolts in reverse order of tightening, ensuring to pull dowel pins from the main caps on WEP 4.6L and 5.4L engines. The main bearing cap bolts are torque-to-yield and must be replaced after removal, while jack screws on REP engines are reusable. Gently tap the caps with a soft-face hammer to separate them from the block, using bolts as levers if necessary, and avoid dropping bearing inserts. Lift the crankshaft out carefully, possibly with assistance, and return the bearing inserts to their respective locations on the engine block, tightening the caps finger tight.

Tighten the thrust bearing cap bolts finger tight.

Remove all burrs from the crankshaft oil holes with a stone, file, or scraper. The oil holes should be chamfered to prevent sharp edges from gouging or scratching the new bearings.

Check the rest of the crankshaft for cracks and other damage. It should be magnafluxed to reveal hidden cracks, which an automotive machine shop will handle.

Starting with the center main and working out toward the ends, tighten the main bearing cap bolts/studs in three steps to the torque specifications.

Recheck the crankshaft endplay with a feeler gauge or dial indicator, ensuring it is correct if the thrust faces are not worn and new bearings are installed.

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