Lincoln AT4Z-6701-A Seal Assy - Crankshaft Oil

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Remove the crankshaft pulley. The seal can then be removed by using a screwdriver or hook tool with caution not to harm the timing chain cover bore or the nose and sealing surface of the crankshaft. Another way of achieving this is making a hole along the seal on each side and fastening the screws to 'pop' the seal. It is required to clean the sealing areas on the engine lid and on the crankshaft, then to clean and oil with the fresh engine oil. I was initially worse off: I was installing the new seal by pressing it into the timing chain cover, making certain it stays square as it goes into the bore. After starting use a seal driver or a suitable socket of the right size then carefully drive the seal in until it is flush with the timing chain cover. Clean the outer lip of the seal where it abuts with the crankshaft then apply clean engine oil on that lip before tightening the crankshaft pulley.

The one-piece rear Crankshaft Seal is pressed into a rear Crankshaft Seal carrier mounted at the rear of the block, and for 3.0L models, the transaxle must be removed, while for 3.5L engines, the engine needs to be lifted out and supported on an engine hoist. In 3.5L V6 engines, two rear seal retaining plates are utilized, with an aluminum plate on early models and a steel plate on later ones; if a steel plate is present, both the plate and seal must be replaced as an assembly. The oil pan should be removed, and for 3.0L engines, a seal removal tool is used to take out the rear seal. For 3.5L engines with aluminum seal retainer plates, the CKP sensor and sensor ring must be removed, followed by the removal of eight bolts securing the Crankshaft Seal carrier to the block, and the two oil pan-to-carrier bolts should be inserted into the threaded holes in the carrier and tightened evenly to force the carrier off the engine. For 3.0L V6 models, clean the Crankshaft Seal carrier mating surfaces on the cylinder block and crankshaft, removing any burrs or raised edges that may have caused seal failure. Lightly coat the inside lip of the new seal with clean engine oil and use a two-inch wide plastic strip or a cut plastic beverage bottle as a liner for installation. With the liner in place, carefully slide the new seal onto the crankshaft's contact surface, using a special seal installer or a large socket with a hammer to tap the seal into place. After removing the plastic liner, tighten the Crankshaft Seal carrier bolts to the specified torque, alternating from left to right, and check for oil leakage when the engine is operable. For 3.5L V6 models, the installation is easier by removing the seal retainer plate, using two of the retainer-to-oil pan bolts to push the retainer from the engine, and ensuring all traces of RTV sealant are removed. A 3/16-inch bead of RTV should be applied where the block and oil pan flanges meet, and the Crankshaft Seal carrier bolts should be finger-tightened while aligning the bottom of the carrier with the engine block to ensure flush surfaces, as improper alignment may lead to leaks. After installing the retainer and all bolts within 10 minutes of applying sealant, clean the bore and apply a film of clean engine oil to the outer edge and lips of the new seal, pressing it squarely into the bore with a special installation tool, avoiding hammering. Finally, install the CKP sensor ring and sensor, and check for oil leakage when the engine is operable.

Remove the crankshaft pulley. The seal can then be removed by using a screwdriver or hook tool with caution not to harm the timing chain cover bore or the nose and sealing surface of the crankshaft. Another way of achieving this is making a hole along the seal on each side and fastening the screws to 'pop' the seal. It is required to clean the sealing areas on the engine lid and on the crankshaft, then to clean and oil with the fresh engine oil. I was initially worse off: I was installing the new seal by pressing it into the timing chain cover, making certain it stays square as it goes into the bore. After starting use a seal driver or a suitable socket of the right size then carefully drive the seal in until it is flush with the timing chain cover. Clean the outer lip of the seal where it abuts with the crankshaft then apply clean engine oil on that lip before tightening the crankshaft pulley.

Unbolt the oil seal and carrier to remove them.

Inspect the front cover and the pulley seal surface for nicks, burrs, or other roughness that could damage the new seal. Correct as necessary.

Install the CKP sensor.

Another procedure for removing the seal is to drill a small hole on each side of the seal and place a self-tapping screw in each hole. Use these screws as a means of pulling the seal out without having to pry on it.

The seal installation can be made easier by unbolting and removing the seal retainer plate. After removing all the mounting bolts, use two of the retainer-to-oil pan bolts and start them into the two threaded holes in the retainer plate. Tightening these two bolts alternately will push the retainer from the engine.

A special tool should be used to remove the crankshaft rear oil slinger.

With the plastic seal liner in place, carefully move the new seal into position by sliding it onto the contact surface of the crankshaft. A special seal installer (manufacturer tool #303-178) or a large socket or piece of pipe the correct size can be used with a small hammer to tap the seal in place on the block.

Check with your auto parts store for the availability of a repair sleeve to restore a smooth finish to the sealing surface.

Coat the lip of the new seal with clean engine oil and drive it into the bore with a seal driver or a large socket.

The oil pan may leak if the two surfaces are not perfectly flush.

Remove the drivebelt.

The seal should be flush with the timing chain cover and remain square when installed.

Tighten the oil seal carrier to the torque using the proper sequence.

Lubricate the new seal with clean engine oil and install it in the timing chain cover with a suitable seal driver which draws the seal in slowly. Be sure that the lip of the seal faces inward. If a seal driver is unavailable, carefully tap the seal into place with a large socket and hammer until it's flush with the timing chain cover surface.

Make sure the bore is clean, then apply a film of clean engine oil to the outer edge and the lips of the new seal. The seal must be pressed squarely into the bore; a special seal installation tool (#303-1250 and 205-153) should be used. Hammering it into place is not recommended.

With the plastic seal liner or tool in place, carefully move the new carrier (with seal factory-installed) into position by sliding it onto the contact surface of the crankshaft.

On 2014 and earlier models, the old seal can be removed by prying it out with a screwdriver or by making one or two small holes in the seal flange with a sharp pick, then using a screw-in type slide-hammer puller. Note how far the seal is recessed into the bore before removing it.

Remove the drivebelt.

1. Remove the engine front cover. 2. Use a punch or screwdriver and hammer to drive the seal out of the cover from the back side, supporting the cover with blocks of wood. 3. Clean the bore to remove any old seal material and corrosion, then position the new seal in the bore with the open end facing IN. 4. Drive the new seal into the bore until it's completely seated. 5. Reinstall the engine front cover and crankshaft pulley. 6. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Position the new seal onto the crankshaft, ensuring that if marked, the words "THIS SIDE OUT" on the seal face out, toward the rear of the engine.

Position the new seal in the bore with the open end of the seal facing IN.

Lubricate the oil seal contact surface with multi-purpose grease or clean engine oil and apply a dab of RTV sealant to the front end of the keyway.