Lincoln 7T4Z-1177-A Seal

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Get the car up on four jackstands and run cables from the battery to the front end. The driveshaft has to be detached, its relative position in relation to the pinion, nut and flange has to be marked before both the nut and a companion flange can be removed using puller 2007 and older models. Remove the seal without harm to the seal bore, apply multi-purpose grease on the lips of the new seal and give it a gentle blow so that it sets squarely on the seat. Match the marks placed before disassembly and slot the corresponding flange and bolt it by making use nut on the pinion if necessary is tightening and finally tighten the nut of the output flange to the required torque. Align the mating marks on the flange and put the driveshaft in place and refill the transfer case fluid when needed. For the 2008 up models, remove the muffler to "Y" exhaust pipe and support the resonator, then locate the position of the output shaft and the flange of the driveshaft before finally removing it. Attach the torque wrench to the pinion and rotate it till you read the total torque on the gauge. Measure that by counting the number of threads which are visible between the end of the nut and the end of the pinion shaft. Loosen the flange mounting nut and hold the pinion flange with a two-pin spanner, then take off the companion flange using a puller if needed, so as to remove the lock nut. Disengage the seal and take off the seal deflector after which, you also remove the collapsible bearing spacer and put on a new collapsible spacer. Place the seal deflector; lubricate the new seal lips and gently push it into proper position with the fingers until it bottoms. Match the mating marks and fit the flange on the output shaft with a new nut, the torque it slowly till the initial number of threads are seen. A word of caution is that one must not torque the nut beyond the recorded RT by more than a total of 3 in lbs, as this will demand dismantling of the bushing adaptor to fit a new collapsible spacer. Last but not the least, the mating marks on the flange must be lined up to install the driveshaft and also check the levels of transfer case fluid in case required, and also make sure all the driveshaft flange and support bolts are switched to new ones.

Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then drain the transfer case lubricant. Remove the driveshaft and mark the relative positions of the pinion, nut, and flange. Use a beam- or dial-type inch-pound torque wrench to determine the torque required to rotate the pinion while the vehicle is in Neutral, and record it for later use. Count the number of threads visible between the end of the nut and the end of the pinion shaft, recording that as well. Remove the flange mounting nut using a two-pin spanner to hold the pinion flange while loosening the locknut, then take off the companion flange with a puller that can attach to the flange's driveshaft bolt holes. Pry out the seal carefully with a screwdriver or seal removal tool, ensuring not to damage the seal bore, and then remove the seal deflector and the pinion seal using a seal-puller. After removing the seal, take out the collapsible bearing spacer and install a new one. Lubricate the lips of the new seal with multi-purpose grease and tap it evenly into position with a seal installation tool or a large socket, ensuring it enters the housing squarely and is fully seated. Align the mating marks made before disassembly and install the companion flange, tightening the pinion nut if necessary to draw the flange into place. Carefully tighten the new nut until the original number of threads are exposed and the marks are aligned, then measure the torque required to rotate the pinion, tightening the nut in small increments until it matches the previously recorded figure. If the original torque reading is exceeded by more than 3 in-lbs, the assembly will need to be disassembled again to install a new collapsible spacer. Finally, connect the driveshaft, add the specified lubricant to the transfer case, and lower the vehicle, ensuring that all driveshaft flange and support bearing bolts are replaced with new fasteners.

Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then drain the transfer case lubricant. Remove the driveshaft and mark the relative positions of the pinion, nut, and flange. Use a beam- or dial-type inch-pound torque wrench to determine the torque required to rotate the pinion while the vehicle is in Neutral, and record it for later use. Count the number of threads visible between the end of the nut and the end of the pinion shaft, recording that as well. Remove the flange mounting nut using a two-pin spanner to hold the pinion flange while loosening the locknut, then take off the companion flange with a puller that can attach to the flange's driveshaft bolt holes. Pry out the seal carefully with a screwdriver or seal removal tool, ensuring not to damage the seal bore, and then remove the seal deflector and the pinion seal using a seal-puller. After removing the seal, take out the collapsible bearing spacer and install a new one. Lubricate the lips of the new seal with multi-purpose grease and tap it evenly into position with a seal installation tool or a large socket, ensuring it enters the housing squarely and is fully seated. Align the mating marks made before disassembly and install the companion flange, tightening the pinion nut if necessary to draw the flange into place. Carefully tighten the new nut until the original number of threads are exposed and the marks are aligned, then measure the torque required to rotate the pinion, tightening the nut in small increments until it matches the previously recorded figure. If the original torque reading is exceeded by more than 3 in-lbs, the assembly will need to be disassembled again to install a new collapsible spacer. Finally, connect the driveshaft, add the specified lubricant to the transfer case, and lower the vehicle, ensuring that all driveshaft flange and support bearing bolts are replaced with new fasteners.