Mercury E7TZ-1216-A Cone And Roller - Bearing

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In most cases, the front wheel bearings will not need servicing until the brake pads are changed. However, these bearings should be checked whenever the front wheels are raised for any reason. With the vehicle securely supported on jack stands, spin the wheel and check for noise, rolling resistance or free play. Grasp the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. If it moves more than 0.005 in, the bearing should be checked, then repacked with grease or replaced as necessary. To remove the bearings for replacing or repacking, begin by removing the hub cap and wheel. Remove the grease cap, using a screwdriver. Straighten and remove the cotter pin and remove the nut lock. With an adjustable wrench or channel-lock-type pliers, remove the lock nut. Remove the flat washer. Grasp the brake rotor firmly and with a slight rocking motion, withdraw the hub from the spindle. Inspection and packing procedures for the wheel bearings can be found. Installing is the reversal of removal but the wheel bearings must be adjusted before the nut lock and cotter pin are fitted. Install the lock nut finger tight and then rock the hub assembly in and out several times to push the brake pads away from the rotor. Install the wheel. While rotating the wheel and hub assembly, tighten the nut to 17 to 25 ft-lb (10 to 15 Nm) to seat the bearings. Loosen the nut one-half turn and then retighten to 10 to 15 lb-in(1.1 to 1.7 Nm). Install the nut lock on the nut so that the castellations on the lock align with the spindle cotter pin hole. Install the cotter pin, bending the ends around the flange of the nut lock. Spin the wheel and hub assembly to check for proper operation. Reinstall the grease cap, using a punch to lock it in position.

In most cases, the front wheel bearings will not need servicing until the brake pads are changed. However, they should be checked whenever the front of the vehicle is raised for any reason. Several items, including a torque wrench and special grease, are required for this procedure: Hammer, Grease, Wood block, Needle-nose pliers, Torque wrench, Screwdriver, Socket/breaker bar, Brush. With the vehicle securely supported on jackstands, spin each wheel and check for noise, rolling resistance, and free play. Grasp the top of each tire with one hand and the bottom with the other, moving the wheel in-and-out on the spindle. If there is any noticeable movement, the bearings should be checked and then repacked with grease or replaced if necessary. Remove the wheel and the brake caliper, hanging it out of the way on a piece of wire. A wood block can be slid between the brake pads to keep them separated. Pry the dust cap out of the hub using a screwdriver or hammer and chisel. Straighten the bent ends of the cotter pin, then pull it out of the nut lock. Discard the cotter pin and use a new one during reassembly. Remove the nut lock, nut, and washer from the end of the spindle. Pull the hub/disc assembly out slightly, then push it back into its original position to force the outer bearing off the spindle enough so it can be removed. Pull the hub/disc assembly off the spindle. Use a screwdriver to pry the seal out of the rear of the hub and remove the inner wheel bearing. Use solvent to remove all traces of the old grease from the bearings, hub, and spindle, allowing the parts to air dry. Inspect the bearings for cracks, heat discoloration, worn rollers, etc., and check the bearing races inside the hub for wear and damage. If defective, the hubs should be taken to a machine shop to remove the old races and press new ones in, noting that bearings and races come as matched sets. Use high-temperature front wheel bearing grease to pack the bearings, working it completely into the rollers, cone, and cage from the back side. Apply a thin coat of grease to the spindle at the outer bearing seat, inner bearing seat, shoulder, and seal seat. Put a small quantity of grease inboard of each bearing race inside the hub, forming a dam at these points with your finger. Place the grease-packed inner bearing into the rear of the hub and put a little more grease outboard of the bearing. Place a new seal over the inner bearing and tap it evenly into place with a hammer and blunt punch until it is flush with the hub. Carefully place the hub assembly onto the spindle and push the grease-packed outer bearing into position. Install the washer and spindle nut, tightening the nut only slightly (no more than 12 ft-lbs of torque). Spin the hub in a forward direction while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 20 ft-lbs to seat the bearings. Loosen the spindle nut 1/4-turn, then tighten the nut by hand until it is snug. Install the nut lock and a new cotter pin through the hole in the spindle and the slots in the nut lock, bending the ends of the cotter pin flat against the nut and cutting off any extra length. Install the dust cap, tapping it into place with a hammer. Place the brake caliper near the rotor, carefully remove the wood spacer, and install the caliper. Install the wheel on the hub and tighten the lug nuts. Grasp the top and bottom of the tire and check the bearings as described earlier. Finally, lower the vehicle.

In most cases, the front wheel bearings will not need servicing until the brake pads are changed. However, they should be checked whenever the front of the vehicle is raised for any reason. Several items, including a torque wrench and special grease, are required for this procedure: Hammer, Grease, Wood block, Needle-nose pliers, Torque wrench, Screwdriver, Socket/breaker bar, Brush. With the vehicle securely supported on jackstands, spin each wheel and check for noise, rolling resistance, and free play. Grasp the top of each tire with one hand and the bottom with the other, moving the wheel in-and-out on the spindle. If there is any noticeable movement, the bearings should be checked and then repacked with grease or replaced if necessary. Remove the wheel and the brake caliper, hanging it out of the way on a piece of wire. A wood block can be slid between the brake pads to keep them separated. Pry the dust cap out of the hub using a screwdriver or hammer and chisel. Straighten the bent ends of the cotter pin, then pull it out of the nut lock. Discard the cotter pin and use a new one during reassembly. Remove the nut lock, nut, and washer from the end of the spindle. Pull the hub/disc assembly out slightly, then push it back into its original position to force the outer bearing off the spindle enough so it can be removed. Pull the hub/disc assembly off the spindle. Use a screwdriver to pry the seal out of the rear of the hub and remove the inner wheel bearing. Use solvent to remove all traces of the old grease from the bearings, hub, and spindle, allowing the parts to air dry. Inspect the bearings for cracks, heat discoloration, worn rollers, etc., and check the bearing races inside the hub for wear and damage. If defective, the hubs should be taken to a machine shop to remove the old races and press new ones in, noting that bearings and races come as matched sets. Use high-temperature front wheel bearing grease to pack the bearings, working it completely into the rollers, cone, and cage from the back side. Apply a thin coat of grease to the spindle at the outer bearing seat, inner bearing seat, shoulder, and seal seat. Put a small quantity of grease inboard of each bearing race inside the hub, forming a dam at these points with your finger. Place the grease-packed inner bearing into the rear of the hub and put a little more grease outboard of the bearing. Place a new seal over the inner bearing and tap it evenly into place with a hammer and blunt punch until it is flush with the hub. Carefully place the hub assembly onto the spindle and push the grease-packed outer bearing into position. Install the washer and spindle nut, tightening the nut only slightly (no more than 12 ft-lbs of torque). Spin the hub in a forward direction while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 20 ft-lbs to seat the bearings. Loosen the spindle nut 1/4-turn, then tighten the nut by hand until it is snug. Install the nut lock and a new cotter pin through the hole in the spindle and the slots in the nut lock, bending the ends of the cotter pin flat against the nut and cutting off any extra length. Install the dust cap, tapping it into place with a hammer. Place the brake caliper near the rotor, carefully remove the wood spacer, and install the caliper. Install the wheel on the hub and tighten the lug nuts. Grasp the top and bottom of the tire and check the bearings as described earlier. Finally, lower the vehicle.

To inspect and service the front wheel bearings, place the vehicle on jack stands and check the noise, resistance, and free play of each wheel. Inspect the bearings if there is any movement or roughness. Take off the cotter pin, nuts, and washer. You can clean and examine bearings, hub, and spindle. Also, pack with high-temp grease, greased spindle, pack inside hub, Install inner bearing and new seal, Install hub assembly, tighten nut while spinning wheel, secure with a cotter pin, Install cap, caliper, and wheel then double check bearings.

Remove the axle shaft. The seal fits just inside the outer end of the axle shaft housing and ideally a slide hammer should be used to extract it. However, it can be removed using a hammer and chisel, but great care should be taken not to damage the axle housing. otherwise oil will seep past the outside of the new seal. Make a note of which way round the seal is located in the house before removing it; usually the metal clad side of the seal faces toward the roadwheel. Smear some gasket sealer around the outside casing of the new seal and drive it evenly into place using a block of wood or a tubular drift having the same outside diameter as the seal. Using a hammer and sharp chisel, make several deep nicks in the bearing retainer ring. This will release its grip on the axle shaft and allow it to be slid off the shaft. If it is tight however, split with a sharp chisel. Place the axle shaft upside-down in a vise so that the bearing retainer is on the top of the jaws and the axle shaft flange is under them, and using a soft-faced hammer drive the axle shaft through the bearing. If this proves difficult it will be necessary to use a garage press. Note which way round the bearing is fitted. Place the retainer plate and new bearing (correct way round) on the axle shaft. Place the axle shaft vertically between the jaws of a bench vise -flange uppermost, so that the inner track is resting on the top of the vise jaws. Using a soft-faced hammer, drive the axle shaft through the bearing until it is seated fully against the shaft shoulder. The bearing retainer should next be refitted, the sequence for this being the same as for the bearing. Do not attempt to fit the bearing and retainer at one go. Pack the bearing with a little multi-purpose grease. Refit the axle shaft assembly.

Remove the axleshaft and the oil seal. A bearing puller will be required or a tool which will engage behind the bearing will have to be fabricated. Use a slide hammer and puller attachment to remove the axleshaft bearing. Attach a slide hammer and pull the bearing out of the axle housing. Clean out the bearing recess and drive in the new bearing with a bearing driver. A correctly sized bearing driver must be used to drive the bearing into the housing. Lubricate the new bearing with gear lubricant. Make sure that the bearing is tapped into the full depth of its recess. Discard the old oil seal and install a new one, then install the axleshaft.

In most cases, the front wheel bearings will not need servicing until the brake pads are changed. However, they should be checked whenever the front of the vehicle is raised for any reason. Several items, including a torque wrench and special grease, are required for this procedure: Hammer, Grease, Wood block, Needle-nose pliers, Torque wrench, Screwdriver, Socket/breaker bar, Brush. With the vehicle securely supported on jackstands, spin each wheel and check for noise, rolling resistance, and free play. Grasp the top of each tire with one hand and the bottom with the other, moving the wheel in-and-out on the spindle. If there is any noticeable movement, the bearings should be checked and then repacked with grease or replaced if necessary. Remove the wheel and the brake caliper, hanging it out of the way on a piece of wire. A wood block can be slid between the brake pads to keep them separated. Pry the dust cap out of the hub using a screwdriver or hammer and chisel. Straighten the bent ends of the cotter pin, then pull it out of the nut lock. Discard the cotter pin and use a new one during reassembly. Remove the nut lock, nut, and washer from the end of the spindle. Pull the hub/disc assembly out slightly, then push it back into its original position to force the outer bearing off the spindle enough so it can be removed. Pull the hub/disc assembly off the spindle. Use a screwdriver to pry the seal out of the rear of the hub and remove the inner wheel bearing. Use solvent to remove all traces of the old grease from the bearings, hub, and spindle, allowing the parts to air dry. Inspect the bearings for cracks, heat discoloration, worn rollers, etc., and check the bearing races inside the hub for wear and damage. If defective, the hubs should be taken to a machine shop to remove the old races and press new ones in, noting that bearings and races come as matched sets. Use high-temperature front wheel bearing grease to pack the bearings, working it completely into the rollers, cone, and cage from the back side. Apply a thin coat of grease to the spindle at the outer bearing seat, inner bearing seat, shoulder, and seal seat. Put a small quantity of grease inboard of each bearing race inside the hub, forming a dam at these points with your finger. Place the grease-packed inner bearing into the rear of the hub and put a little more grease outboard of the bearing. Place a new seal over the inner bearing and tap it evenly into place with a hammer and blunt punch until it is flush with the hub. Carefully place the hub assembly onto the spindle and push the grease-packed outer bearing into position. Install the washer and spindle nut, tightening the nut only slightly (no more than 12 ft-lbs of torque). Spin the hub in a forward direction while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 20 ft-lbs to seat the bearings. Loosen the spindle nut 1/4-turn, then tighten the nut by hand until it is snug. Install the nut lock and a new cotter pin through the hole in the spindle and the slots in the nut lock, bending the ends of the cotter pin flat against the nut and cutting off any extra length. Install the dust cap, tapping it into place with a hammer. Place the brake caliper near the rotor, carefully remove the wood spacer, and install the caliper. Install the wheel on the hub and tighten the lug nuts. Grasp the top and bottom of the tire and check the bearings as described earlier. Finally, lower the vehicle.

Remove the axle shaft assembly. Using a hammer and sharp chisel make several deep nicks in the bearing retainer ring. This will release its grip on the axle shaft and allow it to be slid off the shaft. If it is tight however, split with a sharp chisel. Place the axle shaft upside-down in a vise so that the bearing retainer is on the top of the jaws and the axle shaft flange is under them, and using a soft-faced hammer drive the axle shaft through the bearing. If this proves difficult it will be necessary to use a garage press. Note which way round the bearing is fitted. Place the retainer plate and new bearing (correct way round) on the shaft. Place the axle shaft vertically between the jaws of a bench vise -flange uppermost, so that the inner track is resting on the top of the vise jaws. Using a soft-faced hammer, drive the axle shaft through the bearing until it is seated fully against the shaft shoulder. The bearing retainer should next be refitted, the sequence for this being the same as for the bearing. Do not attempt to fit the bearing and retainer at one go. Pack the bearing with a little multi-purpose grease. Refit the axle shaft assembly.

Remove the axle shaft. The seal fits just inside the outer end of the axle shaft housing and ideally a slide hammer should be used to extract it. However, it can be removed using a hammer and chisel, but great care should be taken not to damage the axle housing. otherwise oil will seep past the outside of the new seal. Make a note of which way round the seal is located in the house before removing it; usually the metal clad side of the seal faces toward the roadwheel. Smear some gasket sealer around the outside casing of the new seal and drive it evenly into place using a block of wood or a tubular drift having the same outside diameter as the seal. Using a hammer and sharp chisel, make several deep nicks in the bearing retainer ring. This will release its grip on the axle shaft and allow it to be slid off the shaft. If it is tight however, split with a sharp chisel. Place the axle shaft upside-down in a vise so that the bearing retainer is on the top of the jaws and the axle shaft flange is under them, and using a soft-faced hammer drive the axle shaft through the bearing. If this proves difficult it will be necessary to use a garage press. Note which way round the bearing is fitted. Place the retainer plate and new bearing (correct way round) on the axle shaft. Place the axle shaft vertically between the jaws of a bench vise -flange uppermost, so that the inner track is resting on the top of the vise jaws. Using a soft-faced hammer, drive the axle shaft through the bearing until it is seated fully against the shaft shoulder. The bearing retainer should next be refitted, the sequence for this being the same as for the bearing. Do not attempt to fit the bearing and retainer at one go. Pack the bearing with a little multi-purpose grease. Refit the axle shaft assembly.

In most cases, the front wheel bearings will not need servicing until the brake pads are changed. However, these bearings should be checked whenever the front wheels are raised for any reason. With the vehicle securely supported on jack stands, spin the wheel and check for noise, rolling resistance or free play. Grasp the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. If it moves more than 0.005 in, the bearing should be checked, then repacked with grease or replaced as necessary. To remove the bearings for replacing or repacking, begin by removing the hub cap and wheel. Remove the grease cap, using a screwdriver. Straighten and remove the cotter pin and remove the nut lock. With an adjustable wrench or channel-lock-type pliers, remove the lock nut. Remove the flat washer. Grasp the brake rotor firmly and with a slight rocking motion, withdraw the hub from the spindle. Inspection and packing procedures for the wheel bearings can be found. Installing is the reversal of removal but the wheel bearings must be adjusted before the nut lock and cotter pin are fitted. Install the lock nut finger tight and then rock the hub assembly in and out several times to push the brake pads away from the rotor. Install the wheel. While rotating the wheel and hub assembly, tighten the nut to 17 to 25 ft-lb (10 to 15 Nm) to seat the bearings. Loosen the nut one-half turn and then retighten to 10 to 15 lb-in(1.1 to 1.7 Nm). Install the nut lock on the nut so that the castellations on the lock align with the spindle cotter pin hole. Install the cotter pin, bending the ends around the flange of the nut lock. Spin the wheel and hub assembly to check for proper operation. Reinstall the grease cap, using a punch to lock it in position.

Remove the axleshaft and the oil seal. A bearing puller will be required or a tool which will engage behind the bearing will have to be fabricated. Use a slide hammer and puller attachment to remove the axleshaft bearing. Attach a slide hammer and pull the bearing out of the axle housing. Clean out the bearing recess and drive in the new bearing with a bearing driver. A correctly sized bearing driver must be used to drive the bearing into the housing. Lubricate the new bearing with gear lubricant. Make sure that the bearing is tapped into the full depth of its recess. Discard the old oil seal and install a new one, then install the axleshaft.

Remove the axle shaft assembly. Using a hammer and sharp chisel make several deep nicks in the bearing retainer ring. This will release its grip on the axle shaft and allow it to be slid off the shaft. If it is tight however, split with a sharp chisel. Place the axle shaft upside-down in a vise so that the bearing retainer is on the top of the jaws and the axle shaft flange is under them, and using a soft-faced hammer drive the axle shaft through the bearing. If this proves difficult it will be necessary to use a garage press. Note which way round the bearing is fitted. Place the retainer plate and new bearing (correct way round) on the shaft. Place the axle shaft vertically between the jaws of a bench vise -flange uppermost, so that the inner track is resting on the top of the vise jaws. Using a soft-faced hammer, drive the axle shaft through the bearing until it is seated fully against the shaft shoulder. The bearing retainer should next be refitted, the sequence for this being the same as for the bearing. Do not attempt to fit the bearing and retainer at one go. Pack the bearing with a little multi-purpose grease. Refit the axle shaft assembly.

Axle shaft has to be removed and oil seal taken out. Use a bearing puller or make a custom tool for removing the bearing. Insert this slide hammer attached removal tool through the middle and pull it against the back side in order to yank the bearing from axle housing. Employing a slide hammer, extract the bearing. Take away all dirt and fit in a new bearing using an appropriately-sized one. With gear lubricant, grease it up and insert the new bearing back into its recess. Next, discard the old oil seal and install another one before putting in place again the axle shaft.

When inspecting and servicing front wheel bearings, lift the car and listen to noise, resistance, and free play on each tire. In case it moves, take off the cap of the dust, nut washer, nut lock, and cotter pin. The spindle should be pushed to detach the hub from the outer bearing. Then take out the seal by removing the hub from it. Inspect and exchange any components that are defective or excessively worn out. Fill with grease bearings as well as lubricate spindles and hubs with grease. Put on a seal, inner bearing, and outer bearing (in this order). Use a washer and nut for securing them together. While spinning the hub, tighten up a nut so that later excess grease may be removed. A new nut lock plus cotter pin should be used for fastening it tightly enough while installing a dust cap, caliper and tire back again. You can now lower your vehicle to test its bearings.

Abnormal tire wear, reduced fuel efficiency, and diminished ride quality may result from wearing out or damaging steering linkage and suspension parts. To evaluate the struts, park vehicle on level ground, switch off engine, apply the parking brake and check tire pressures. Push down at each corner while observing the body's movement; it should rebound to level within one or two bounces. Any continuous movement or failure to return indicates potential strut problems. Redo this test for all corners of the vehicle if necessary jackstands can be used to raise the vehicles and examine shock struts for fluid leakage and ensure secure mounting. If leakage is found coming from any of them , replace both damaged struts on that end . Moreover, inspect front suspension as well as steering components for leaks damage and worn seals. Such joints need replacement when there are movements detected by pushing tire inwards or outward then placing a finger into them so as to assess play. Check also for any looseness in tie-rod ends and steering gear mounts by pushing/pulling tires away from/to you . For excessive play in front wheel bearings again push or pull tire after which you should listen for anything unusual during rotation. Lastly ensure that the CV Boot has no cracks, tears, holes or deteriorated rubber before cleaning it off just in case it was dirty. If the boot is torn apart have a look at its joints to see whether they are damaged near the CV Boot then find some new boots if need be.

The axleshaft bearing can be removed by using a slide hammer and puller attachment.