Mercury 2L2Z-6505-AA Valve - Exhaust

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It is important to check the valve clearances with the help of a cold engine. It is recommended that the valve clearances be checked and altered only after the camshaft(s) or any other related valve parts have been replaced, or when there is much rumbling noise in the valve-train. Start from disconnecting the cable that is connected to the negative terminal of the battery next is remove the spark plugs and the valve covers. Position the engine with the crankshaft pulley center bolt on the cylinder to be checked until cam lobes are out of the lifters as possible using socket and breaker bar. Gauge the clearance of each valve with a feeler gauge of the specified thickness; slight drag on the feeler gauge will tell that the clearance is correct. Record any valve which is out of specification as this will form part of the analysis when estimating the number of required replacement lifters. Again we shall repeat the same process for all the valves. Any of the clearance that exist must be adjusted by replacing the lifter with a new lifter whose thickness head is of a different measure. Stoke the lifters to be replaced and record their assorted valves. Head thickness of each lifter is to be measured using the micrometer on the center projection on the underside for accuracy. To calculate the correct thickness for a replacement lifter that will achieve the specified valve clearance, use the formula: A new lifter thickness would therefore be calculated as: N equal R + (M1-M2) These lifters are stamped on the bottom to show their size such a code 3.310 means the thickness is 3.31mm or 0.13 inch. This lifters are then marked according to their installation location, then applied with engine assembly lube and finally installed. To rectify the problem replace the lifters, reset the camshafts and timing chains and after that adjust the valve clearances.

Because of the intricacies of the job and the need to use specialized tools and equipment, that entailing reconditioning of the valves, valve seats, and valve guides known in the automobile world as valve job, should be done by a professional. A home mechanic should be capable of pulling the head, doing preliminary cleaning and wiping and then return the head to the car and deliver it to a dealer service department or an auto machine shop for the service. Performing the inspection enables identification of status of the head and valve train parts and the work as well as new parts required when dealing with an automotive machine shop. This will be done by the dealer service department or the automotive machine shop through reconditioning or replacement of the valves and valve seats, reconditioning and inspecting of the valve guides, replacing valves springs, spring retainers, rotators, and valve keepers as may be required, replacing the valve to seal with a new one and reassembly of the valved component with proper installed spring height. Also, the surface of the cylinder head gasket will be done some grinding if it has warped. Depending on professionalism of the valve job done, the head will then look as new as when it was bought. On its way back, it is necessary to clean the head once more before it is fitted onto the engine to remove any loose metal and abrasive dirt that was generated in the course of the valve grinding or in the process of surfacing the head, and to blow out all oil ways and passages with air pressure, if available, but always wearing safety goggles when using air pressure.

Because of the complex nature of the job and the special tools and equipment needed, servicing of the valves, the valve seats, and the valve guides, commonly known as a valve job, should be done by a professional.

You will need to purchase these special parts from your local dealership.

The first step is to remove the valve cover.

Because of the complex nature of the job and the special tools and equipment needed, servicing these components, commonly known as a valve job, should be performed by a professional.