If an overhaul is indicated, explore all options before beginning the job. New and factory-rebuilt calipers are available on an exchange basis, making the job easier. If rebuilding the calipers, ensure a rebuild kit is available beforehand and always rebuild in pairs. Begin by applying the parking brake and blocking the wheels opposite the end being worked on. Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the vehicle, and support it securely on jackstands before removing the wheel. Unscrew the brake hose banjo bolt and detach the hose from the caliper, plugging the hose immediately to prevent fluid loss and air from entering the Hydraulic Control Unit on models with a four-wheel Anti-lock Brake System. If the caliper cannot be completely removed, suspend it with wire to avoid bleeding the brake system. Clean the exterior of the caliper with brake system cleaner, avoiding petroleum-based solvents, and place it on a clean workbench. Use compressed air to remove the piston, ensuring safety precautions are followed. Remove the dust boot and piston seal with a wooden or plastic tool, examining the piston and caliper bore for damage. Clean all parts with brake system cleaner, avoiding petroleum-based solvents, and allow them to dry. Check the fit of the piston in the bore and lubricate the new piston seal and caliper bore with clean brake fluid. For 1994 and earlier models, fit the new dust boot and lubricate the piston before pushing it into the caliper. For 1995 and later models, lubricate the pistons and push them into the bores, installing the dust boots afterward. Connect the brake hose to the caliper with new sealing washers and tighten the banjo bolt to the specified torque. Bleed the brakes if necessary, install the wheel, lower the vehicle, and tighten the lug nuts. Finally, pump the brake pedal several times to bring the pads into contact with the disc and test the operation of the brakes before normal use.