Ford 1L5Z-6675-AA Frame Assembly

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To pull the 3.7L engine out, the vehicle has to be lifted, and supported properly on two jackstands. Remove the engine oil, of which an example is shown in Fig. 7-3, clean the drain plug, and remove the oil filter. Following this, refer to that you have to set up the lower engine splash shield, and then remove the crossmember brace together with the mounting bolts and the strut tower cross brace. Dash out the battery and the battery tray, the oil dip stick, the ground strap, and harness retainers throughout the back of the engine. Loosen the four bolts of oil pan-to-timing chain cover and the two nuts at the engine mount. Remove radiator upper cover and support brackets and support the engine from above by fixing a fixture to the cylinder head with legs set correctly so as not cause body damage. Rmve the transnssion-to-oil pan bolts, disconnect the connectors from the power electronic assist steering and unbolt the steering shaft from steering gear. Place to floor jacks under the subframe, take off the subframe bolts, and drop the subframe. Remove the upper transmission-to-engine bolts and commence to turn them clockwise, while using a screwdriver to prise the engine and the transmission apart at the bell housing. The oil pan fasteners have to be detached, along with the oil pan, and this is best done with notches to help you push them out. Scrub the oil pan in order and get ready for it to be fitted by applying RTV sealant at certain points after and then fit the oil pan while tightening the bolts in a certain manner. The backward involves refastening of the fasteners with tightens nuts to standard torque values, replacing of self-locking nuts, refilling of the engine oil and the addition of new oil filter before restarting the engine in order to detect leaks. In the 4.0L engine the oil pan assembly has the lower sheet metal pan as well as the upper aluminum one. To remove the oil pan, the engine must be pulled out and the lower oil pan fasteners and the oil pump screen cover must be removed. Remove the reinforcement section by the needed bolts while being cautious not to apply pressure on the gasket surfaces. For installation, first clean all the surface then apply RTV sealant if requires and then place new gaskets and put the reinforcement section of the drive and ensure that there must be proper clearance to avoid any kind of damage. Lastly, all the bolts should again be tightened up to the required torque and then the oil pump pickup tube and the oil pan should also be fitted efficiently on to the places that they belong to.

To execute it for 2WD models, first remove the negative cable of the battery and take out the oil dipstick. Remove the screws to the fan shroud and place it over the fan and the final step is the removal of the engine, which is mounted on the frame using special mounts. Lift the car and effect proper jack-staning to do the work on the car area very easily. If so fitted remove the retainer clip and separate the connector from low oil level sensor. Discard the oil and put in a fresh oil filter. The mechanical starter motor must be eradicated, as well as front transmission shroud which has the appearance of a cover. Take off the nuts on the engine mounts and lift the engine by 2 inches using the three-bar engine support fixture, and pull off the transmission, and the engine flywheel or drive plate. Take out the passenger side axle beams, it is advised to take of the brake caliper then fasten it somewhere out of the way. Remove the bolts that fix the oil pan into position and then, with the help of a hoist, lift the engine to about two inches so that enough space will be created to allow the oil pan to be freed and taken out-using a little force, if need be. Before fitting, degrease the sealing surfaces of the block and pan, then fit a new gasket to the oil pan in contact adhesive way. Wipe the majority of the 4 to 5 mm thick RTV sealer off the junction of the rear main bearing cap and engine block and the timing chain cover-to-block surface, and put it around the edges of the bearing cap and to the mating area of the cover to the block, making sure that the sealant does not dry up before fitting the pan. Place the pan on the engine, fasten the oil pan bolts, and apply only the recommended amounts of force in order to tighten them. Any parts removed should be reinstalled and the engine oil topped up before engaging the engine to look for any signs of leakage. On the 4WD models, the engine has to be dismantled to get at the oil pan. Next, supporting the engine on a suitable engine stand, have the oil pan bolted, and if required, eased off slightly. Scrub the gasket surfaces nicely and insert a new one that you'll be using contact adhesive; apply a 4 to 5 mm thick of RTV sealer on the relevant joints but make sure the sealant has not cured before you fit the pan. Place the pan in the position of the engine, screw the bolts of the oil pan, and fasten it accordingly. Last but not the least, place back the engine, other components that were unclipped, add the engine oil, and start the engine for leakage test.

To remove the engine from the vehicle, first take out the oil pan fasteners and detach the oil pan from the engine, using a Tor bit for the bolts on each side of the crankshaft rear oil seal and a Tone driver for the two adjacent bolts. If needed, remove the baffle fasteners to take out the baffle, which is secured to the main bearing caps. For installation, be cautious as two oil pan bolts are attached to the transmission, requiring the correct selection of spacers to prevent damage or leaks. Clean all old gasket material from the oil pan and its mounting surface with a gasket scraper, and remove any residue with a solvent. Position the oil pan on the engine block, then use a straightedge across the transmission mounting surface and one of the oil pan-to-transmission bolt mounting pads to measure the gap with a feeler gauge. Repeat this for the other mounting pad and select spacers to compensate for the gap, available in three thicknesses. Apply a thin bead of ATV sealant to the outside edge of the gasket surface and around the crankshaft rear oil seal at the rear of the engine, as well as to the seams and corners of the front seal cover and engine block-to-timing-chain cover. Install a new oil pan gasket, secure the oil pan fasteners evenly to the specified torque, and ensure the long screw next to the crankshaft rear oil seal is properly positioned. Finally, install the spacers on the mounting pads before bolting the engine to the transmission.

To remove the engine from the vehicle, first take out the oil pan fasteners and detach the oil pan from the engine, using a Tor bit for the bolts on each side of the crankshaft rear oil seal and a Tone driver for the two adjacent bolts. If needed, remove the baffle fasteners to take out the baffle, which is secured to the main bearing caps. For installation, be cautious as two oil pan bolts are attached to the transmission, requiring the correct selection of spacers to prevent damage or leaks. Clean all old gasket material from the oil pan and its mounting surface with a gasket scraper, and remove any residue with a solvent. Position the oil pan on the engine block, then use a straightedge across the transmission mounting surface and one of the oil pan-to-transmission bolt mounting pads to measure the gap with a feeler gauge. Repeat this for the other mounting pad and select spacers to compensate for the gap, available in three thicknesses. Apply a thin bead of ATV sealant to the outside edge of the gasket surface and around the crankshaft rear oil seal at the rear of the engine, as well as to the seams and corners of the front seal cover and engine block-to-timing-chain cover. Install a new oil pan gasket, secure the oil pan fasteners evenly to the specified torque, and ensure the long screw next to the crankshaft rear oil seal is properly positioned. Finally, install the spacers on the mounting pads before bolting the engine to the transmission.

Unbolt the oil pan. If it is stuck on, gently pry it off, taking care not to bend or distort the pan sealing flange.

Remove all oil pan bolts. Disconnect any wiring harnesses that interfere with removal. If necessary for access, loosen the transmission-to-block bolts just enough to move the transmission slightly.

Apply a bead of RTV sealant to the four corner seams where the rear seal retainer meets the engine block and where the front cover meets the engine block.

Install the oil pump pickup tube, place a new oil pan gasket in position, and install the oil pan and bolts, tightening the bolts to the specified torque.

Install a new pan gasket on the engine, followed by the oil pan. Install the pan fasteners and tighten them evenly to the torque. The long screw next to the crankshaft rear oil seal passes through a boss on the pan, then through the pannange and into the block.

Clean the oil pan gasket surface on the cylinder block and the oil pan flange to ensure they are perfectly clean to prevent oil leaks.

The next step is to remove all oil pan bolts and disconnect any wiring harnesses that interfere with removal. If necessary for access, loosen the transmission-to-block bolts just enough to move the transmission slightly.

The complete oil pan assembly is comprised of two sections: the lower section is a sheet metal oil pan, and the upper section is a large aluminum casting that serves as a structural reinforcement for the lower part of the crankcase.

Remove the nuts and detach the pan from the engine. Select spacers for the mounting pads to compensate for the gap, as spacers are available in three thicknesses.

Install the engine in the vehicle.

Since two of the oil pan bolts are attached to the transmission, spacers are used between the oil pan and transmission. Failure to check the clearance and select the shims correctly can cause oil pan damage or oil leaks when the pan is installed.

Do not pry between the reinforcement section and the block on any gasket sealing surface.

Start the engine and check carefully for oil leaks at the oil pan.

Start the engine and check carefully for oil leaks at the oil pan.