Ford F1TZ-7A564-A Cylinder Assembly - Clutch Slave

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In order to avoid any force which can cause permanent damage to the external slave cylinder in case the clutch pedal is being depressed while the cylinder is disconnected, the master cylinder push rod should be disconnected from the clutch pedal before the service of any car that requires the external slave cylinder to be disconnected. To examine closely, the vehicle be lifted and supported by the jackstands. For external slave cylinders, pull the dust boot aside and find out whether there is too much fluid trapped in it; for the concentric slave cylinders, check whether there is leakage in the transverse bellhousing lower vent hole or in the side inspection port that is in the clutch housing provided you have not mistaken the transmission fluid with the brake fluid. Any sign of leakage means that the slave cylinder needs replacing or the whole system needs replacing. For 1987 and earlier, the slave cylinder is dismantled and included in the master cylinder with hydraulic line. To disassemble, loosen and pull off the clutch cylinder pushrod and retainer bushing from the pedal cross-shaft lever pin; take off the two nuts that secure the clutch master cylinder assembly to the firewall if the slave cylinder is tor to be replaced. Pay attention to the position of the hydraulic line and remove the clips insecure places. Sliding of the slave cylinder out is done whereby on 7.5L engines, there are retaining tabs of the slave cylinder which are lifted before the cylinder is slid out While in 4.9/5.0/5.8L engine vehicles there is a C-clip that removed and the cylinder slides out of the clutch housing bracket. If the above cases call for clutch component replacement, then, it is advisable to replace the whole clutch hydraulic system. For installation, insert the clutch master cylinder assembly to the hole placed on the firewall and tighten the two nuts. Install the clutch tubing and slave cylinder on the bellhousing and free it of any coming in contact of the engine exhaust system, secure the clips. The slave cylinder needs to be fitted such that the push rod engages into the release lever and the cylinder fits into the clutch housing lugs or bracket and requires a retaining C-clip. Remove the pushrod and retainer bushing from the master cylinder pushrod then clean and apply a thin layer of SAE 30 engine oil on the master cylinder, follow this by sliding the pushrod and retainer bushing on the cross-shaft lever pin until the tabs seat. Look under the hood and see the condition of the clutch reservoir and if necessary, pour more fluid and when sure that the clutch is working correctly by pressing the clutch pedal at least ten times you should then remove the jack stands and let the vehicle down. Again after 1988 models, the process is much the same while being careful to keep the clutch line capped to maintain the pressure fluid. If the slave cylinder was taken off and replaced or removed from the hydraulic line it will have to be bench bleed before being fitted on then bleed clutch master hydraulic line if needs be. Last but not the least, pull the clutch pedal, check the level of the clutch fluid in the clutch reservoir and add the fluid if necessary to make sure that it reaches the high mark. On concentric slave cylinders, lift the car and support it adequately; remove the clutch fluid hydraulic line from the tranny, and also, remove the transmission and clutch release bearing before taking out the slave cylinder. Installation includes positioning the slave cylinder over the transmission input shaft in a manner that has the bleed screw as well as the line coupling on the left side, tightening fasteners and getting a good hydraulic line engagement and if required bleeding the clutch hydraulic system.

In order to avoid any force which can cause permanent damage to the external slave cylinder in case the clutch pedal is being depressed while the cylinder is disconnected, the master cylinder push rod should be disconnected from the clutch pedal before the service of any car that requires the external slave cylinder to be disconnected. To examine closely, the vehicle be lifted and supported by the jackstands. For external slave cylinders, pull the dust boot aside and find out whether there is too much fluid trapped in it; for the concentric slave cylinders, check whether there is leakage in the transverse bellhousing lower vent hole or in the side inspection port that is in the clutch housing provided you have not mistaken the transmission fluid with the brake fluid. Any sign of leakage means that the slave cylinder needs replacing or the whole system needs replacing. For 1987 and earlier, the slave cylinder is dismantled and included in the master cylinder with hydraulic line. To disassemble, loosen and pull off the clutch cylinder pushrod and retainer bushing from the pedal cross-shaft lever pin; take off the two nuts that secure the clutch master cylinder assembly to the firewall if the slave cylinder is tor to be replaced. Pay attention to the position of the hydraulic line and remove the clips insecure places. Sliding of the slave cylinder out is done whereby on 7.5L engines, there are retaining tabs of the slave cylinder which are lifted before the cylinder is slid out While in 4.9/5.0/5.8L engine vehicles there is a C-clip that removed and the cylinder slides out of the clutch housing bracket. If the above cases call for clutch component replacement, then, it is advisable to replace the whole clutch hydraulic system. For installation, insert the clutch master cylinder assembly to the hole placed on the firewall and tighten the two nuts. Install the clutch tubing and slave cylinder on the bellhousing and free it of any coming in contact of the engine exhaust system, secure the clips. The slave cylinder needs to be fitted such that the push rod engages into the release lever and the cylinder fits into the clutch housing lugs or bracket and requires a retaining C-clip. Remove the pushrod and retainer bushing from the master cylinder pushrod then clean and apply a thin layer of SAE 30 engine oil on the master cylinder, follow this by sliding the pushrod and retainer bushing on the cross-shaft lever pin until the tabs seat. Look under the hood and see the condition of the clutch reservoir and if necessary, pour more fluid and when sure that the clutch is working correctly by pressing the clutch pedal at least ten times you should then remove the jack stands and let the vehicle down. Again after 1988 models, the process is much the same while being careful to keep the clutch line capped to maintain the pressure fluid. If the slave cylinder was taken off and replaced or removed from the hydraulic line it will have to be bench bleed before being fitted on then bleed clutch master hydraulic line if needs be. Last but not the least, pull the clutch pedal, check the level of the clutch fluid in the clutch reservoir and add the fluid if necessary to make sure that it reaches the high mark. On concentric slave cylinders, lift the car and support it adequately; remove the clutch fluid hydraulic line from the tranny, and also, remove the transmission and clutch release bearing before taking out the slave cylinder. Installation includes positioning the slave cylinder over the transmission input shaft in a manner that has the bleed screw as well as the line coupling on the left side, tightening fasteners and getting a good hydraulic line engagement and if required bleeding the clutch hydraulic system.

Before performing any service that requires removal of the clutch slave cylinder, the master cylinder and pushrod must be disconnected from the clutch pedal to avoid permanent damage to the master cylinder assembly if the clutch pedal is depressed while the clutch slave cylinder is disconnected. For 1983-84 models, the clutch hydraulic system is serviced as a complete unit, which has been bled of air and filled with fluid, as individual components are not available separately. For 1985 models, disconnect the negative battery cable, remove the transmission assembly, take off the clutch housing-to-transmission retaining nuts, and remove the housing assembly before taking out the clutch slave cylinder from the transmission input shaft. To install, fit the clutch slave cylinder over the transmission input shaft with the tower portion facing the transmission, install the clutch housing to the transmission ensuring proper location of the clutch slave cylinder, install the transmission, and bleed the hydraulic system. For 1986-90 models, start by disconnecting the negative battery cable and the coupling at the transmission using the appropriate tool, then remove the transmission assembly, the clutch slave cylinder-to-transmission retaining bolts, and the clutch slave cylinder from the transmission input shaft. To install, fit the clutch slave cylinder over the transmission input shaft with the bleed screws and coupling facing the left side, install the retaining bolts with specified torque, reinstall the transmission, reconnect the coupling, bleed the system, and reconnect the negative battery cable. For bleeding the hydraulic system, clean the dust cap, remove it and the diaphragm, and fill the reservoir with approved brake fluid. Route a suitable rubber tube from the bleed screw to a container to prevent brake fluid from entering the clutch housing. Loosen the bleed screw to allow fluid to move from the master cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder while keeping the reservoir full. When a steady stream of fluid comes from the clutch slave outlet, tighten the bleed screw, depress the clutch pedal, and release it rapidly, repeating this process multiple times while checking the fluid level. After ensuring the system is fully bled, check the vehicle by starting it and selecting reverse gear to confirm there is no grating of gears; if there is, repeat the bleeding procedure.

Disconnect the master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal before removing the clutch slave cylinder. To take off the retainer bushing, pry it off and release the master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal. After that, disconnect the hydraulic quick-disconnect fitting from the slave cylinder. Then remove the transmission. With respect to removing bolts that secure the clutch slave cylinder to the transmission, slide it off its input shaft. The installation is done in reverse order of removal plus adding installing a clutch slave cylinder onto an input shaft while making sure that its hydraulic line faces left. Tighten these bolts during installation of your clutch slave cylinder. Lastly, when necessary, remember to bleed your clutch hydraulic system.