Ford F1SZ-9345-A Relay

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When transmitting the electrical signal to the component, several electrical accessories in the vehicle are using relays. The defective relay leads to a malfunctioning component. These different relays are grouped at various places. In case of suspicion of a faulty relay, it can be removed and checked by a dealer service department or repair shop. Malfunctional relays must be changed as an assembly.

In the fuel injection system of the vehicle and horns, the starter, the fog lamps, and many other electrical appliances in the car, relays are used to transference electrical stimuli to the appliance. Relays control a low current control circuit to switch on or off a high current power circuit, and therefore an unreliable relay will cause the relevant component not to work as required. Main and additional relays are located in the engine compartment, together with other electrical equipment; the underhood power center is situated near the battery and includes relays and high amperage fuses. Some cars of the late model use a relay box near the brake master cylinder along with relays for air conditioner WOT cutout, fuel pump, PCM power, and PCM power diode. In a case of suspected faulty relay it can be unbolted and checked, there is onboard procedure or check by the local service provider. In case of relays with short or open circuits, these must be replaced as a complete assembly. For proper hook-ups while testing a relay, one needs to look at wiring diagrams; where these are not available, a set of details noted follows in the information list. Typically relays come in type with two terminals for the control circuit which is connected to the relay coil, and the rest of the terminals for the power circuit which closes internally when the coil is energized. They are normally labelled so that control and power circuits can easily be distinguished from one another. To test, click the relay and ground the terminal on the other side of the circuit in the case there will be no continuity between terminal 30 and 87. Then add a fused jumper wire from one of the control circuit terminals to the positive battery terminal and another wire from the second control circuit terminal to ground; the relay should click. If it does not, try flipping the jumper wires. When the jumper wires are connecting, you should ground continuity between the power circuit terminals, and the continuity reading should be now between 30 and 87 terminals. If the relay does not pass any of these tests it is recommended that it should be replaced.

If a relay is defective, the component it controls will not operate properly.

If the relay doesn't click during the test, you may try swapping the jumper wires on the control circuit terminals, as polarity can be critical on some relays. If it still doesn't click, it's likely defective and should be replaced.

If a faulty relay is suspected, it can be removed and tested by a dealer service department or a repair shop.

If you're not able to determine the correct hookup from the wiring diagrams, you may be able to determine the test hookups from the information provided.