Mercury F5AZ-6049-B Cylinder Head Assembly

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The engine must be completely cool when the heads are removed. Failure to allow the engine to cool off could result in head warpage. Removal begins with disconnecting the cable from the negative battery terminal and removing the valve cover(s). Next, remove the intake manifold, timing chain cover, and timing chains. Use the required camshaft holding fixture to lock the camshafts in place. Leave the holding fixtures in place until after the reassembly is complete. Separate the exhaust manifold-to- exhaust pipe(s). Detach the positive battery cable bracket at the rear of the cylinder head. Loosen the nut and slide the positive battery cable bracket up and off the stud on the right side of the cylinder head. At the rear of the right cylinder head remove the ground strap. Disconnect the heater hose at the pipe fastened at the rear of the right side cylinder head. The pipe can remain attached to the head during removal. Remove the exhaust manifold(s), if desired. Remove the head bolts by loosening them 1/4 turn at a time. Lift the head(s) off the engine. Remove the old head gasket(s). Before removing, note which gasket goes on which side, they are different and cannot be interchanged. Cylinder head disassembly and inspection procedures are covered in detail. Installation begins with ensuring the mating surfaces of the cylinder heads and block are perfectly clean. Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of carbon and old gasket material, then clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. Check the block and head mating surfaces for nicks, deep scratches and other damage. Use a tap of the correct size to chase the threads in the head bolt holes. Make sure the new gaskets are on the correct cylinder banks. Position the new gasket(s) over the alignment dowels in the block. Before placing the cylinder heads back on the block, rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise, as you are facing the engine, so the keyway is in the 9 o'clock position. Carefully position the head(s) on the block without disturbing the gasket(s). Install the NEW head bolts and follow the recommended sequence and tighten the bolts, in three steps. The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal. Change the engine oil and filter, then start the engine and check carefully for oil and coolant leaks.

New and rebuilt cylinder heads are commonly available at dealerships and auto parts stores.

Check for cylinder head warpage using a straightedge and feeler gauge, looking for "twist" and "bulge" warpage. Inspect valve seats in combustion chambers for damage.

Proceed to Step 12.

Valve spring, retainer (or rotator), and sleeve (if used).

The mating surfaces should be cleaned and checked for damage. The threads in the head bolt holes should be chased. The new gasket(s) should be positioned over the locating dowels. The head(s) should be carefully positioned on the block and the threads on all bolts should be lightly oiled. The recommended tightening sequence should be followed in two or three steps.

The keepers are removed from the valve stem with a needle nose pliers.

Using a straightedge and feeler gauge, check the head gasket mating surface for warpage. Check for both "twist" and "bulge" warpage by positioning the straightedge diagonally as well as straight across the gasket surface. If the warpage exceeds the limit, it will have to be resurfaced at an automotive machine shop.

Use a valve spring compressor to compress the springs and carefully install the keepers in the upper groove. Then, slowly release the compressor and make sure the keepers seat properly.

The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal.

Change the engine oil and filter, then start the engine and check carefully for oil and coolant leaks.

Scrape off any heavy deposits that may have formed on the valves, then use a motorized wire brush to remove deposits from the valve heads and stems. Again, make sure the valves don't get mixed up.

Reinstall the valve lifters.

The mating surfaces must be perfectly clean. Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of carbon and old gasket material, then clean the surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone.

It may be more practical and economical because some specialized tools are necessary for the disassembly and inspection procedures, and replacement parts may not be readily available.