Mercury XR3Z-6108-GA Piston And Pin Assembly

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To prepare for piston/connecting rod assembly removal, check for ridges at the upper limit of ring travel using your fingernail and, if present, use a ridge reamer to eliminate them before attempting to remove the piston/connecting rod assemblies. Ensure the tool doesn't cut into the ring travel area more than 1/32-inch. Once ridges are addressed, turn the engine upside-down with the crankshaft facing up. Before removing connecting rods, check the side clearance with a dial indicator or feeler gauges, ensuring it falls within the specified limits; excessive clearance may require new connecting rods or crankshaft repair. Mark connecting rods and caps for identification, then gradually loosen the connecting rod cap nuts or bolts and remove them by hand. Remove the connecting rod cap and bearing insert, protecting the crankshaft with hose sections if studs are present. Push the connecting rod/piston assembly out through the top of the engine using a wooden or plastic hammer handle, ensuring any resistance is double-checked for ridge removal. Repeat for remaining cylinders. After removal, reassemble connecting rod caps and bearing inserts in their respective rods, securing cap nuts finger tight, and avoid separating pistons from connecting rods.

Rotate the crankshaft to check for binding - Compare the measurement of the connecting rod endplay to specifications - If necessary, resize the rods at an automotive machine shop.

Use a piston ring installation tool to carefully extract the rings, avoiding any damage to the pistons.

Carefully inspect each piston for cracks around the skirt, at the pin bosses, and at the ring lands.

Slip a section of plastic or rubber hose over each connecting rod bolt. Note that 4.6L engines use cap bolts that are screwed into the rod after the rod and cap are assembled on the crankshaft.

Check the connecting rods and caps for identification marks. If they aren't plainly marked, use a small center-punch, number stamping die, or scribe to make the appropriate number of indentations or marks on each rod and cap (1, 2, 3, etc., depending on the engine type and cylinder they're associated with).

Tap the top edge of the ring compressor to make sure it's contacting the block around its entire circumference.

Check the connecting rods and caps for identification marks. If they aren't plainly marked, use a small center-punch, number stamping die, or scribe to make the appropriate number of indentations or marks on each rod and cap (1, 2, 3, etc., depending on the engine type and cylinder they're associated with).

Check the piston-to-bore clearance by measuring the bore and the piston diameter. Measure the piston across the skirt, at a 90-degree angle to, and in line with, the piston pin. Subtract the piston diameter from the bore diameter to obtain the clearance. If it's greater than specified, the block will have to be rebored and new pistons and rings installed.