Ford 2C5Z-6303-AA Crankshaft Assembly

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A crankshaft can only be removed if the engine itself is removed from the car which presuming that some of the other parts like the flywheel, crankshaft pulley, timing chain, oil pan, oil pump body, oil filter and piston/connecting rod assemblies have been disconnected. Before the removal process, check the crankshaft endplay, in this case, use a dial indicator to check on the crankshaft. Push the crankshaft to the back and align the indicator, then move the crankshaft to the front to check the result; such reading should range from 0.003 to 0.010 inch (0.076 to 0.254 mm). If the endplay is more than this amount, check the thrust faces for wear. For 3.7L V6 engines, thrust washers are placed on the 4th journal and for 4.0L V6 engines on the upper number 3 crankshaft saddle. The V8 engines have thrust washers on the back of the number 5 main bearing journal saddle of the engine. If for some reason, it is impossible to use a dial indicator, clearance can be measured using feeler gauges. Take out the M/B cap support brace and gently turn the M/B cap bolts before completely pulling off the caps. Slowly and gently raise out the crankshaft, if possible get help, and replace the main bearing caps loosely with the correct orientation. For installation the engine block and crankshaft should be clean and checked for any signs of wear or possible cracks. Lay the block upside down, if necessary, to expose the lower surfaces and remove any end bearings originally fitted; surface and dry the faces as before. Replace new upper main bearing inserts in the saddles, whereby oil holes are to be rightly oriented and correctly fit the thrust washer. A quick check that can be made is the main bearing oil clearance using the Plastigage that should not go beyond the limits. If required, one must replace it by correct bearing inserts size. This film being removed, grease any Plastigage deposit off the bearing surfaces and thrust faces before filing the crankshaft back into position. It is recommended to clean up the bearing insert faces and lubricate with oil before fitting the main bearing and tighten the caps bolts to the manufactures recommended torque with the correct sequence. Check again the crankshaft endfloat and make sure the crankshaft can rotate as easy as possible without any strturing. Last but not the least; fit the main bearing cap support brace and fit the new rear main oil seal.

It is impossible to remove the crankshaft until the engine is removed from the car, knowing that the flywheel or driveplate and the vibration damper are attached, the timing chains or gears, oil pan, oil pump, and piston/connecting rod assemblies are other features that have to be removed. Crankshaft endplay should be checked before starting the crankshaft removal operation; first, install a dial indicator as shown in figure 3 so that it can touch the end of the crankshaft. Stand the crankshaft rearward and set the dial indicator to zero, prostrate the crankshaft forward and read the dial indicator; endplay is defined by the movement. If the stationary geometry is distorted beyond the limit, the thrust surfaces of the worn wheel should be inspected For that there is no worn wheel the problem must be solved by new main bearings. In the absence of a dial indicator, feeler gauges can also be used where the crank shaft is hammered or pried towards the front and the clearance is noted with the feeler gauges. Make sure that the main bearing caps are stamped to show their positions; these should be sequentially stamped from the front; if there are no such markings apply them yourself. On 5.0L engines, the thrust bearing is to be found at the number three main bearing cap and having upper and lower thrust bearing shells. Turn the main bearing cap bolts in a clockwise direction in stages, to allow them to be easily unscrewed to get a loose fit, and make sure the stud bolts are replaced back in their respective positions on when re-tightening. The 4.6L motors have considerably higher amounts of bolts that hold the main caps, which demands elaborate procedures for affixation and detachment. Take out all side bolts, snug the jacking screws on the main bearing cap at least, and then remove the main bearing cap bolts in the reverse order that is used in tightening and these bolts are not to be used again. Using a soft face hammer tap on the caps to loosen them, using bolts as a pry-bar, lift the crankshaft out very carefully as it is very heavy, it is best done with another person. Put back the lower caps to their respective positions and loosely fasten the bolts of the bearing inserts.

It is impossible to remove the crankshaft until the engine is removed from the car, knowing that the flywheel or driveplate and the vibration damper are attached, the timing chains or gears, oil pan, oil pump, and piston/connecting rod assemblies are other features that have to be removed. Crankshaft endplay should be checked before starting the crankshaft removal operation; first, install a dial indicator as shown in figure 3 so that it can touch the end of the crankshaft. Stand the crankshaft rearward and set the dial indicator to zero, prostrate the crankshaft forward and read the dial indicator; endplay is defined by the movement. If the stationary geometry is distorted beyond the limit, the thrust surfaces of the worn wheel should be inspected For that there is no worn wheel the problem must be solved by new main bearings. In the absence of a dial indicator, feeler gauges can also be used where the crank shaft is hammered or pried towards the front and the clearance is noted with the feeler gauges. Make sure that the main bearing caps are stamped to show their positions; these should be sequentially stamped from the front; if there are no such markings apply them yourself. On 5.0L engines, the thrust bearing is to be found at the number three main bearing cap and having upper and lower thrust bearing shells. Turn the main bearing cap bolts in a clockwise direction in stages, to allow them to be easily unscrewed to get a loose fit, and make sure the stud bolts are replaced back in their respective positions on when re-tightening. The 4.6L motors have considerably higher amounts of bolts that hold the main caps, which demands elaborate procedures for affixation and detachment. Take out all side bolts, snug the jacking screws on the main bearing cap at least, and then remove the main bearing cap bolts in the reverse order that is used in tightening and these bolts are not to be used again. Using a soft face hammer tap on the caps to loosen them, using bolts as a pry-bar, lift the crankshaft out very carefully as it is very heavy, it is best done with another person. Put back the lower caps to their respective positions and loosely fasten the bolts of the bearing inserts.

Prior to the removal of crankshaft, to determine its endplay, slide a dial indicator with the face touching the end of the crankshaft, and parallel to it. Push the crankshaft to the back so the dial indicator reads zero, and then push it to the front to take the reading; the regular endplay measures between 0.003 and 0.010 inches or 0.076mm-0.254 mm. If the endplay varies in this range, there is no sign of wear on the thrust surfaces after removal; new main bearings may solve the problem as previously described. Thrust bearings are different for different engines and are positioned differently in the engine; positions for 4.2L V6, 4.6 L V8, 5.4 L V8, 3.5/3.7L V6, 5.0/6.2L V8. If a dial indicator is not available, the amount of clearance can be measured by feeler gauges. Turn the main bearing cap bolts slowly but steadily, to the point that they can be easily unsturted and for V8 models the loosening must be done as follows. Approximately 2005 and later models of the 4.6L V8 engine have jack screws that need to be loosened in a counter clockwise manner to remove the cap. Carefully untighten the main bearing caps and then using your hand tap the caps so that you can lift them off without dropping the bearing inserts. Slowly raise the crankshaft out and if possible, do so with help; place the main bearing cap assembly back over the engine block, while torqueing the bolt just enough to be finger tight but checking the location of the cap. For installation, make sure that component such as the engine block and the crankshaft are clean and checked. Place it in an inverted manner, take off the main bearing caps and clean the bearings of the places where the main bearing caps are placed. Replace the wear bar of each saddle with a new upper main bearing insert that has oil grooves and holes. Scrub the matt surfaces of the crankshaft and bearing insert faces and then inspect the oil way for dirt. Place the crankshaft in its rightful position and measure the main bearing oil clearance through the aid of Plastigage, which has to be slightly shorter than the width of the journals. After applying Plastigage on both journals, fit the main-bearing cap, assembly without shifting it, apply clean engine oil on the bolts, and tighten the bolts in the manner described next. Bolt in the reverse coming off, lift the caps and to make the clearance you need to measure the crushed Plastigage. If the clearance is incorrect the cause should be sought in dirt or oil interference and the bearing inserts should be replaced if necessary. The Plastigage must be removed from the journals and insert faces by washing and after that apply some thin coat of grease or assembly lube on the bearing surfaces and thrust faces. Place the crankshaft back to its position, clean the bearing insert surfaces and put a coat of oil. Ref to V6 engines, the RTV sealant should be applied to the rear main bearing cap parting line and placed the cap before four minutes. Bolt back on and tighten up, then re-measure the crankshaft end play, then turn the crankshaft over to check for any binding and insure that turning the crank with running torque of 50 in-lbs or less. Last but not the least, fit the new rear main oil seal.

Make sure the crankshaft journals are clean, then lay the crankshaft back in place in the block.

Check the oil seal journals at each end of the crankshaft for wear and damage. If the seal has worn a groove in the journal, or if it's nicked or scratched, the new seal may leak when the engine is reassembled. In some cases, an automotive machine shop may be able to repair the journal by pressing on a thin sleeve. If repair isn't feasible, a new or different crankshaft should be installed.

Check the rest of the crankshaft for cracks and other damage. It should be magnafluxed to reveal hidden cracks, which an automotive machine shop will handle.

Section 20 and examine the main and rod bearing inserts.

Check crankshaft endplay again and verify that it is correct.

Crankshaft installation is the first step, assuming the engine block and crankshaft have been cleaned, inspected, and repaired or reconditioned.

Gently tap the caps with a soft-face hammer, then separate them from the engine block. If necessary, use the bolts as levers to remove the caps. Try not to drop the bearing inserts if they come out with the caps.