Ford E9TZ-6108-DB Piston

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Clean piston/rod assemblies, replace piston rings. Use ring installation tool to extract rings without damaging pistons. Remove carbon deposits from piston tops with wire brush or emery cloth. Clean ring grooves with groove cleaning tool. Inspect pistons for cracks, scoring, scuffing, overheating, or abnormal combustion. Check for piston corrosion indicating coolant leakage. Measure ring side clearance and piston-to-bore clearance. Resize pistons if needed. Inspect connecting rods for cracks or damage, replace if necessary.

Prior to removing the piston and connecting rod assemblies, the cylinder heads, oil pan, and oil pickup must be taken off. First, completely remove the ridge at the top of each cylinder using a ridge reaming tool, following the manufacturer's instructions, as failure to do so may result in piston breakage. After the ridges are removed, turn the engine upside down so the crankshaft is facing up. Before removing the connecting rods, check the endplay with feeler gauges, ensuring the play is eliminated; if the endplay exceeds the service limit, new connecting rods may be necessary. Check the connecting rods and caps for identification marks, and if they are not marked, use a small center punch to create indentations. Loosen each connecting rod cap nut half a turn until they can be removed by hand, then take off the number one connecting rod cap and bearing insert, ensuring not to drop the bearing insert. To protect the crankshaft journal and cylinder wall, slip a short length of plastic or rubber hose over each connecting rod cap bolt before removing the piston. Push the connecting rod and piston assembly out through the top of the engine, using a wooden hammer handle to assist, and if resistance is felt, verify that all ridge material has been removed. Repeat this process for the remaining cylinders, and after removal, reassemble the connecting rod caps and bearing inserts in their respective rods, installing the cap nuts finger tight to prevent accidental damage to the bearing surfaces.

Clean piston/rod assemblies, replace piston rings. Use ring installation tool to extract rings without damaging pistons. Remove carbon deposits from piston tops with wire brush or emery cloth. Clean ring grooves with groove cleaning tool. Inspect pistons for cracks, scoring, scuffing, overheating, or abnormal combustion. Check for piston corrosion indicating coolant leakage. Measure ring side clearance and piston-to-bore clearance. Resize pistons if needed. Inspect connecting rods for cracks or damage, replace if necessary.

Before installing piston/connecting rod assemblies, ensure clean cylinder walls, chamfered top edge of each cylinder, and crankshaft in place. Remove cap from end of number one connecting rod, wipe original bearing inserts' surfaces. Place upper and lower bearing inserts in connecting rod and cap, align tabs. Position piston ring gaps, lubricate piston and rings with oil. Use ring compressor to insert assembly into number one cylinder bore, tap piston into place, guide connecting rod onto crankshaft journal. Check connecting rod bearing oil clearance with Plastigage before bolting rod cap. Tighten nuts to specified torque, check Plastigage for oil clearance, scrape off traces if correct. Apply moly-base grease or assembly lube to bearing faces, slide connecting rod back into place. Repeat procedure for remaining pistons/connecting rods. Rotate crankshaft to check for binding, verify connecting rod endplay, resize rods if necessary at machine shop.

Prior to removing the piston and connecting rod assemblies, the cylinder heads, oil pan, and oil pickup must be taken off. First, completely remove the ridge at the top of each cylinder using a ridge reaming tool, following the manufacturer's instructions, as failure to do so may result in piston breakage. After the ridges are removed, turn the engine upside down so the crankshaft is facing up. Before removing the connecting rods, check the endplay with feeler gauges, ensuring the play is eliminated; if the endplay exceeds the service limit, new connecting rods may be necessary. Check the connecting rods and caps for identification marks, and if they are not marked, use a small center punch to create indentations. Loosen each connecting rod cap nut half a turn until they can be removed by hand, then take off the number one connecting rod cap and bearing insert, ensuring not to drop the bearing insert. To protect the crankshaft journal and cylinder wall, slip a short length of plastic or rubber hose over each connecting rod cap bolt before removing the piston. Push the connecting rod and piston assembly out through the top of the engine, using a wooden hammer handle to assist, and if resistance is felt, verify that all ridge material has been removed. Repeat this process for the remaining cylinders, and after removal, reassemble the connecting rod caps and bearing inserts in their respective rods, installing the cap nuts finger tight to prevent accidental damage to the bearing surfaces.

The cylinder walls must be perfectly clean, the top edge of each cylinder must be chamfered, and the crankshaft must be in place.

You should push the connecting rod/piston assembly out through the top of the engine using a wooden or plastic hammer handle.

The tool should not cut into the ring travel area more than 1/32-inch.

Rotate the crankshaft to check for binding - Compare the measurement of the connecting rod endplay to specifications - If necessary, resize the rods at an automotive machine shop.

Scrape off any traces of Plastigage if the oil clearance is correct - Apply a layer of clean moly-base grease or engine assembly lube to the bearing faces - Slide the connecting rod back into place on the journal.

The tool should not cut into the ring travel area more than 1/32-inch.

Position the piston ring gaps at intervals around the piston.

Measure the piston ring side clearance by laying a new piston ring in each ring groove and slipping a feeler gauge beside it. Check the clearance at three or four locations around each groove. Be sure to use the correct ring for each groove, as they are different. If the side clearance is greater than specified, new pistons will have to be used.

Check for piston corrosion indicating coolant leakage and correct the causes.

Use your fingernail to feel if a ridge has formed at the upper limit of ring travel (about 1/4-inch down from the top of each cylinder).

If carbon deposits or cylinder wear have produced ridges, they must be completely removed with a special tool called a ridge reamer. Follow the manufacturer's instructions provided with the tool. Failure to remove the ridges before attempting to remove the piston/connecting rod assemblies may result in piston breakage. Do not let the tool cut into the ring-travel area more than 1/32-inch.

The cylinder walls must be perfectly clean, the top edge of each cylinder must be chamfered, and the crankshaft must be in place.

The cylinder walls must be perfectly clean, the top edge of each cylinder must be chamfered, and the crankshaft must be in place.

If the pistons must be removed from the connecting rods for any reason, they should be taken to an automotive machine shop. While there, have the connecting rods checked for bend and twist, as automotive machine shops have special equipment for this purpose. Note: Unless new pistons or connecting rods must be installed, do not disassemble the pistons and connecting rods.

The piston/connecting rod assemblies must be cleaned and the original piston rings removed from the pistons. Note: Always use new piston rings when the engine is reassembled.

Measure the piston ring side clearance by laying a new piston ring in each ring groove and slipping a feeler gauge in beside it. Check the clearance at several points around the groove. Use the correct ring for each groove as they are different. If the side clearance is greater than specified, new pistons will have to be used.