Genuine Ford F-250 Clutch Slave Cylinder

Ford F-250 Clutch Slave Cylinder Parts Questions & Experts Answers

• Cylinder Assembly - Clutch Slave
  F1TZ-7A564-A
  Q: What precautions should be taken before that requires the removal of the external slave cylinder on Ford F-250?

  A: In order to avoid any force which can cause permanent damage to the external slave cylinder in case the clutch pedal is being depressed while the cylinder is disconnected, the master cylinder push rod should be disconnected from the clutch pedal before the service of any car that requires the external slave cylinder to be disconnected. To examine closely, the vehicle be lifted and supported by the jackstands. For external slave cylinders, pull the dust boot aside and find out whether there is too much fluid trapped in it; for the concentric slave cylinders, check whether there is leakage in the transverse bellhousing lower vent hole or in the side inspection port that is in the clutch housing provided you have not mistaken the transmission fluid with the brake fluid. Any sign of leakage means that the slave cylinder needs replacing or the whole system needs replacing. For 1987 and earlier, the slave cylinder is dismantled and included in the master cylinder with hydraulic line. To disassemble, loosen and pull off the clutch cylinder pushrod and retainer bushing from the pedal cross-shaft lever pin; take off the two nuts that secure the Clutch Master Cylinder assembly to the firewall if the slave cylinder is tor to be replaced. Pay attention to the position of the hydraulic line and remove the clips insecure places. Sliding of the slave cylinder out is done whereby on 7.5L engines, there are retaining tabs of the slave cylinder which are lifted before the cylinder is slid out While in 4.9/5.0/5.8L engine vehicles there is a C-clip that removed and the cylinder slides out of the clutch housing bracket. If the above cases call for clutch component replacement, then, it is advisable to replace the whole clutch hydraulic system. For installation, insert the clutch master cylinder assembly to the hole placed on the firewall and tighten the two nuts. Install the clutch tubing and slave cylinder on the bellhousing and free it of any coming in contact of the engine exhaust system, secure the clips. The slave cylinder needs to be fitted such that the push rod engages into the release lever and the cylinder fits into the clutch housing lugs or bracket and requires a retaining C-clip. Remove the pushrod and retainer bushing from the master cylinder pushrod then clean and apply a thin layer of SAE 30 engine oil on the master cylinder, follow this by sliding the pushrod and retainer bushing on the cross-shaft lever pin until the tabs seat. Look under the hood and see the condition of the clutch reservoir and if necessary, pour more fluid and when sure that the clutch is working correctly by pressing the clutch pedal at least ten times you should then remove the jack stands and let the vehicle down. Again after 1988 models, the process is much the same while being careful to keep the clutch line capped to maintain the pressure fluid. If the slave cylinder was taken off and replaced or removed from the hydraulic line it will have to be bench bleed before being fitted on then bleed clutch master hydraulic line if needs be. Last but not the least, pull the clutch pedal, check the level of the clutch fluid in the clutch reservoir and add the fluid if necessary to make sure that it reaches the high mark. On concentric slave cylinders, lift the car and support it adequately; remove the clutch fluid hydraulic line from the tranny, and also, remove the transmission and clutch Release Bearing before taking out the slave cylinder. Installation includes positioning the slave cylinder over the transmission input shaft in a manner that has the bleed screw as well as the line coupling on the left side, tightening fasteners and getting a good hydraulic line engagement and if required bleeding the clutch hydraulic system.