Ford FOAZ-18125-A Shock Absorber Assembly

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Remove the shock absorber's upper nut, washer, and bushing. Lift the vehicle and secure on jackstands. Detach the two bolts connecting the shock absorber to the lower control arm and remove it. Check the bushings and grommets for damage and replace if needed. Install a new, air-bled hydraulic shock absorber. Reinstall all bushings and grommets in their original order. Use a floor jack to lift the lower control arm if needed. If threads in the arm are damaged, use locknuts on the bolts. Tighten all fasteners to the required torque.

Start by loosening lug nuts and raising the vehicle. Remove the wheel and place a jack under the control arm. If equipped with ARC, remove the actuator. Loosen the three upper mount-to-shock tower nuts, but don't remove them. Remove the shock-to-lower control arm nut and bolt, and separate the shock absorber/coil spring assembly. Remove the stabilizer link upper nut and separate it from the spindle. Use the jack to raise the control arm and disconnect the upper control arm. Remove the shock absorber/coil spring assembly. To install, place the upper mount over the new assembly and install the nut. Guide the assembly into the wheel well and install the three nuts. Attach the assembly to the lower control arm and install the stabilizer link. Tighten all nuts. If applicable, attach the actuator. Remove the jack, install the brake caliper, and the wheel. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts.

Turn off the air suspension and disconnect the height sensor. Support it on jack stands and let the rear axle hang free until the shock absorbers vent. Compress the shock to remove the inner insulator and washer. Remove the side trim panel from the trunk to access the upper mounting nut. Remove the lower retaining nut or bolt and the shock absorber. Before installing a new shock, expel all air by extending and compressing it. Insert the shock rod through the upper mounting hole in the frame, and install the outer insulator, washer, and a new stud retaining nut. Align the lower shock eye in the bracket and install the bolt and nut. Extend the shock, insert the lower shock stud through the hole in the bracket, and install a new self-locking retaining nut. Attach the airline, remove the jack stands, and lower the vehicle.

This procedure is specific to 1982 through 1987 Continentals and 1984 through 1992 Mark Vlls. The struts on these models cannot be serviced and must be replaced as complete assemblies. To begin, loosen the front wheel lug nuts and raise the vehicle, supporting it securely on jackstands. Remove the wheel and the disc brake caliper, hanging it out of the way with wire. Place a floor jack under the lower control arm and raise it slightly. Unscrew the three upper mount to strut tower retaining nuts, and if the upper mount is to be removed from the strut assembly, loosen the center nut. Remove the strut to steering knuckle nuts and bolts, separating the two components and lifting the strut out of the wheel well. If the upper mount is to be replaced, remove the center retaining nut and slide off the mount. To install, place the upper mount over the top of the strut and install the nut if it was removed. Guide the strut assembly into position in the wheel well, pushing the upper mount studs through the holes in the shock tower. Install the three nuts and tighten them to the specified torque. Insert the steering knuckle into the lower mounting flange of the strut assembly and install the two bolts, using new bolts and nuts if recommended. Tighten the nuts to the specified torque. Finally, tighten the upper mount to strut assembly retaining nut to the specified torque. Remove the jack from under the control arm and install the disc brake caliper. Install the wheel, lower the vehicle, and tighten the lug nuts to the specified torque.

The steering linkage and suspension components should be checked periodically as worn or damaged components can lead to excessive tire wear, poor ride quality, reduced fuel economy, and compromised vehicle handling. To check the shock absorbers, park the vehicle on level ground, turn off the engine, and set the parking brake. Push down at each corner of the vehicle and observe if it stops moving and returns to a level position within one or two bounces. If the vehicle continues to move or fails to return to its original position, it may indicate worn or weak shock absorbers. Raise the vehicle and inspect the shock absorbers for fluid leakage, ensuring that any fluid noted is from the shocks and not from another source. Replace the shocks as a set if leakage is present. Additionally, check the shock absorbers for secure mounting and any signs of damage. For the steering and suspension check, visually inspect the components for damage, leaks, and worn seals, boots, and fittings. Clean the lower end of the steering knuckle and have an assistant move the wheel in and out while checking for movement at the steering knuckle-to-control arm balljoint. If there is any movement, the suspension balljoint(s) should be replaced. Grasp each front tire at the front and rear edges, push in at the front and pull out at the rear to feel for play in the steering system components. If any play is noted, check the steering gear mounts and tie-rod ends for looseness. Finally, check the steering gear mount bolt tightness and if the tie-rods are loose, the balljoints may be worn.

You should check the shock absorber for leaking fluid, dents, cracks, or other obvious damage. You should also check the coil spring for chips or cracks that could cause premature failure, and inspect the spring seats for hardness or general deterioration.

Removal starts by removing the shock absorber upper attaching nut, washer, and bushing to detach the upper end of the shock absorber. For upper balljoint replacement on 1992 and later models, it's crucial to mark the location of the alignment marks on the adjustment cams before removing the two retaining nuts.

Check for secure mounting and any signs of damage.

If the vehicle is equipped with ARC, remove the cover, disconnect the ARC actuator electrical connector, and lift the actuator from the top of the shock absorber by squeezing the retaining tabs.

All fasteners should be tightened to the specified torque.

Park the car on level ground, turn off the engine, and set the parking brake. Check the tire pressures. Push down at one corner of the vehicle, then release it while noting the movement of the body. It should stop moving and come to rest in a level position with one or two bounces. If the vehicle continues to move up and down or fails to return to its original position, a worn or weak strut or shock absorber is likely.

Grasp each front tire at the front and rear edges, push in at the front, pull out at the rear, and feel for play in the steering system components.

Check the rear drive axle constant velocity (CV) joint boots for damage or leaking grease while the vehicle is raised.

This procedure is specific to 1982 through 1987 Continentals and 1984 through 1992 Mark Vlls.

The steering knuckle should be inserted into the lower mounting flange of the strut assembly, and the two bolts should be installed. If recommended, new bolts and nuts should be used and tightened to the specified torque.

If fluid leakage is evident, replace the shock absorbers as a set.

To inspect the damper rod seal, you should extend and retract the damper rod slowly and quickly through its full stroke. It should move smoothly, quietly, and offer resistance. If it is jerky, noisy, or offers little to no resistance, the shock absorber should be replaced.

Before installing a new hydraulic shock absorber, expel all air by extending and compressing it multiple times. Place the inner washer and rubber insulator on the shock piston rod and insert the rod through the upper mounting hole in the frame. Install the outer insulator, washer, and a new stud retaining nut on the upper side of the frame. On specific models, install the inner washer and rubber insulator on the shock rod and insert the rod through the upper mounting hole. Push up on the shock absorber to align the lower shock eye in the mounting bracket and install the bolt and nut. Then install the upper mounting rubber insulator and the dished washer on the shock rod and tighten the nut. Extend the shock absorber, insert the lower shock stud through the hole in the bracket on the axle tube, and install a new self-locking retaining nut. Attach the air line(s), if equipped.

Use the floor jack to raise the lower control arm and disconnect the upper control arm from the spindle.

A new hydraulic shock absorber should be installed after bleeding the air from it.

Start by raising the rear of the vehicle and securely supporting it on jackstands.

Visually inspect the components for damage, leaks, and worn seals, boots, and fittings.

The rod can be prevented from turning by holding it with a wrench or locking pliers.

Before installing a new hydraulic shock absorber, expel all air by extending and compressing it multiple times. Place the inner washer and rubber insulator on the shock piston rod and insert the rod through the upper mounting hole in the frame. Install the outer insulator, washer, and a new stud retaining nut on the upper side of the frame. On specific models, install the inner washer and rubber insulator on the shock rod and insert the rod through the upper mounting hole. Push up on the shock absorber to align the lower shock eye in the mounting bracket and install the bolt and nut. Then install the upper mounting rubber insulator and the dished washer on the shock rod and tighten the nut. Extend the shock absorber, insert the lower shock stud through the hole in the bracket on the axle tube, and install a new self-locking retaining nut. Attach the air line(s), if equipped.